Zuni Petit Point Jewelry--Something to be treasured!

Jewelry is always an essential part of an outfit.  Personally, I prefer to keep things rather minimal and understated.  That's not to say that over the top isn't great too.  But, one of my favorite things to wear has always been Native American jewelry.  Maybe its because I live in the Southwest and its normal here, or maybe its from growing up with all of those Ralph Lauren ads, but I just love it.  (By the way, it was Dee Morris who made most of the jewelry in the Ralph Lauren ads.  He was based out of Sedona, Arizona and made some AMAZING pieces)

One of my favorite styles is Zuni.  The Zuni tribe lives in New Mexico and is a Pueblo tribe.  They are primarily agricultural and have a rich religious and cultural tradition.  They learned silversmithing in about 1870 and many members of the tribe have gone on to be master craftspeople.  The Petit Point style is one that is unique to the Zuni tribe. The pin to the right is a classic example.  The turquoise is Kingman and is completely hand cut.  The stones are bezel-set into the silver and the entire piece is hand-forged and from about 1970.  What makes the style so unique is the settings--they are more or less bezel set, but have tiny prongs around the top that are sometimes decorative and sometimes functional.  To set the stones, the larger ones are held in with matchsticks while the maker sets them, the smaller ones are held in with toothpicks.  The pieces are kind of like a mosiac--lots of little stones, all methodically set next to each other to spell out a larger pattern and with the settings, has a sort of "embroidery" look to it, unlike any other style of jewelry.  Traditionally, petit point jewelry is only for women to wear.

This piece is from Chief Dodge and is Zuni needlework (same as "petit point") with Sleeping Beauty turquoise.  It is a vintage piece.  I love it because it is so detailed and with very fine work, would go perfectly pinned on a black dress with several other pins.  Its not too big, not too loud and is a very classic design.  This piece, like so many others isn't signed, which is unfortunate because now we can never know what person took the time to make something so beautiful.

When it comes to Zuni petit point/needlework there are fakes out there, particularly coming from China.  Be careful what you buy!  Personally, I suggest that you buy from somewhere like Chief Dodge of Scottsdale because they only deal in authentic jewelry, have some of the best prices and have experts on site.  Plus, they're really nice and carry just about every sort of style imaginable.

Veritable Wax Hollandais--Vlisco Prints!

One of the most exciting fabric manufacturers in the world if Vlisco, the maker of Wax Hollandais fabrics. I know that I've written about them before, HERE, but due to the overwhelming interest I've received regarding that post, I've decided to write some more.

Vlisco started in 1846 in Helmond, Netherlands to take advantage of demand for batik fabrics.  At first, the focus was on Indonesian batik fabrics, but demand in West Africa for vibrant, beautiful fabrics took off and that market has since become the sole focus of Vlisco.  Currently, no fabrics are produced with Europe or US in mind, instead the focus in on Benin, Togo, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Nigeria, and surrounding countries.  The consumer that Vlisco is meant for are the women of those countries who have their clothes custom made and are interested in beautiful clothes of lasting value.  Vlisco is trying to branch out and be a fashion brand and not just a fabric manufacturer.  They are currently opening Vlisco boutiques around the major cities of their target countries to cater to the tastes and trends of their customers.

At first, the fabrics were printed by hand with huge stamps but in 1910 the company started to transition into using mechanical printers.  The last hand-printed fabric was produced in 1993.  The fabric is produced by applying a specific kind of wax and then dye to high-grade fabrics.  The process that Vlisco uses is proprietary, but that is the gist of it--the fabric is repeatedly stamped with wax and dye to form the print.  The fabric itself isn't white--Vlisco uses a variety of base colors for their fabric, such as indigo, sepia, claret and related colors.  This gives the colors of the fabric more vibrancy and depth.  The wax that is used is made to crackle different every time, so the print that is produced is different in each spot and no piece of fabric is ever the same.

A new fabric collection is produced once a quarter, both because the customers want new prints regularly and to keep ahead of the copy-cats.  My favorite print from the latest collection is part of the Gallery of Poems line.  It's so cool!  It reminds me of traditional perfume bottles, kinda Arabian Nights but not overwhelming.  It would look so cool is a full, pleated skirt so that print could be seen but wouldn't look like a costume.

Vlisco is clearly one of the top producers of beautifully printed fabrics.  Not only are the prints interesting and innovate but the quality of the fabric is worth wearing!

Image and information obtained from Vlisco and their representatives.

Pajama Jeans--The Apocalypse Has Arrived

Lord have mercy.  Humanity has discovered a way to make jeggings even worse.  This is known as "pajama jeans".

I was watching Top Chef and minding my own business when this horrible commercial came on.  "Jeans" for you to sleep in.  Complete with fake fly affixed.  Apparently, someone thinks that jeans are hard to get on and uncomfortable--my advice is to then buy the right size and quit trying to wear something you stole from a 14 year old.

Here is why I think Pajama Jeans are only fit to be thrown away, a completely stupid trend.  Your pants should not pretend to be something they're not.  These pants are not jeans, they're spandex tubes that you probably shouldn't wear.  They're not going to do you any favors--no way they hide cellulite, lumps or saggy bottom disease.  They make it worse.  Also, you do not need to look fully dressed, complete with jeans when you are sleeping.  Worse yet, there is no need to wander around in public in your pajamas.  PLEASE DON'T.  No one wants to see you in your pjs.  That's why we make regular pants.  Regular pants aren't scary, they are your friend and you should wear them.

One of my favorite things is that the UK chain store Tesco has banned shoppers from wandering their aisles while wearing their pajamas.  Seems reasonable enough.  But, for some bizarre reason, people have decided that they must circumvent this rule and have decided that Pajama Jeans are the way to go.  Now, what on earth makes people try to avoid wearing normal pants at all costs?!

Sharon Wauchob--Pearls & Stitches

One of the most exciting things to see in fashion is a designer who is obsessed with their materials.  Sure, designers who are all about shape and color are cool.  There's a real place for them.  But, textiles are the THING that is fashion and I think many designers kinda forget to pay enough attention to it.  Sharon Wauchob's obsession is with excellence in textiles and innovation in fabrics and materials.

Wauchob is an Irish designer who attended St. Martins and currently has both the creative director for both the Sharon Wauchob line and Edun.  The Sharon Wauchob line is based in and shows in Paris; the line is finished in Paris but the textiles are fabricated around the world, with many being made in Japan.  She previously worked for Louis Vuitton and Koji Tatsuno before she started her own line.

The black dress she had in her 2011 Spring show is something to be really excited about.  It looks like...pearls are embroidered on?!  I can't tell from the picture if it is pearls or embroidery, but this particular collection included such dresses and this looks like it should be one of them.  See, I've been quite taken with the idea of clothes with real pearls applied to them for quite some time and I've just never seen this done--this makes me sooooo excited!!  Its beautiful, classic but wearable, it's exactly what I want to wear this spring.  The colors are ones that look great on everyone, the neckline is interesting and the print-effect of the fabric is beautiful.  Love this dress!!

Another look in Wauchob's collection that was really something was the brown tone on tone suit.  I know, it's very simple.  But, its flattering and YOUNG looking.  Its friggin hard to find a nice, beautiful suit as a young woman.  They don't make them.  But, here is one of those unicorns--a suit any woman can wear without making them look old and fashion-backward.  The blazer is incredibly lovely and makes the model look slim and modern.  The blouse is simple and feminine.  The pants are flattering and comfortable looking.  Also, the fabrics of the pieces look BEAUTIFUL.  You just want to reach out and touch them.  The look luscious and expensive.  Sure, the look is simple but its really something work wearing.  Wauchob is known for her "alternative" looks, but in this she shows that she can do all things, even classic.

The Sharon Wauchob line is absolutely lovely, not just for the basic design elements, but for the attention to detail and work put in towards using the best textiles.  I mean, a dress with stripes made of pearls?!

Pictures from Style

Merry Christmas!!

I hope that you and yours have a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year!

And, of course, if you're going to partake in the eggnog, make sure you find some reindeer to get you home and don't try to do that yourself!

Be safe, have fun, and hug your mom!

2010: A Retrospective

2010 was an okay year for fashion.  There were some very clear trends.  Not necessarily my favorite, but none of the designers asked my opinion!

One major trend was SEQUINS.  God knows why.  They do no one any favors.  For some reason, everyone wanted to either look like they themselves were a giant disco ball or that they were at least carrying one.  To the right is the Louis Vuitton AW 2010 bag that best illustrates this--Marc Jacobs, for whatever reason, took a perfectly great exotic skinned bag and coated the main part of it with black sequins.  Hmmmm.  Is it just me, or is this bag going to be quickly pawned off on little nieces or sold on ebay when people come to their senses?

See, what makes me dislike sequins so much is not only the fact that they look cheap and shiny.  Its that they don't last.  They fall off.  They break.  It's totally defeats the purpose of investing in some wonderful piece of fashion.  Bah humbug!!

Another trend were the DRAPED SWEATERS.  Not so bad!  The one on the left is by FrostFrench and is a nice cashmere blend.  Sure, many people appreciate buttoning their sweaters, but there is something nice about a well-draped sweater.  This trend won't go on forever, but it's like everyone jumped on the Rick Owens bandwagon and considering I love Rick Owens, I'm okay with this.  It's interesting, its comfortable and it at least feels like fashion instead of some of the cheap looking dreck that comes out regularly.

One of the other major trends was to put BOWS on everything.  Personally, I hate bows.  Yuck.  Bad childhood memories of turtleneck shirts and skirts that my mother made me wear.  But, apparently everyone loves the things.  The Lanvin Printemps 2010 one pictured isn't so bad.  Alber Elbaz has at least stuck it on the shoulder where it sorta blends in with the draping of the dress.  So, it can be done in a less offensive manner so even someone like me with childhood trauma will consent to wear it.  But, it's one of those trends best done in moderation.  And, considering that it's just a trend and not any sort of "staple", make sure none of your investment pieces have it--my guess is that sometime over the next few seasons, you're going to find yourself pointing and laughing at people festooned with bows and you'll want a clear conscience that you don't secretly have a closet full of the stuff!

2010 wasn't so bad.  There was a lot of new talent on the scene, it felt like more so than in previous years.  The kind of innovation that they bring is fun and great for fashion!  Luckily, there were minimal amounts of things that I saw that were outright shameful (other than JEGGINGS.  I don't count those as clothes) and lets hope that they new year brings many more fun, beautiful and elegant things!

Photos from style.com and frostfrench.com

Merry Christmas!

Wow, it's crazy to think that I've neglected to update my blog for so very long!  I'm so sorry!  To everyone who constantly clicks on it, THANK YOU!

I had no idea so many hundreds of people visit me a month.  Apparently, people read what I write!  So, for the new year, I am going to be making a better effort to update my blog.  I won't do it all the time, I'm sure. But, I will be making a more concerted effort to post updates.

So, enjoy the holiday season and all of the occasions to celebrate beauty in this world with those that you love!

And, remember to check back once in a while because I'll start tracking down, cool unusual designers again and commenting on crap that everyone hates (UGH, JEGGINGS!!!  AND JEGGINGS FOR MEN!!!!  BAHHHHHHHHH!!!!).

Much love--SHOULDERACHE