Net-A-Porter Sold!

High end fashion is huge business.  Fashion in general is one of the biggest economic drivers on the planet.  No matter how silly people make it out to be, the business of deciding what to wear is part of what makes the world go round.  It accounts for about 5% of all household spending in the US, which, in aggregate terms adds up "lots of money".  Just like every other industry on the planet, the fashion industry is subject to take overs, mergers and deals.  The most recent huge one was Richemont SA bought a controlling stake in Net-A-Porter!

Why is this a big deal?  Net-A-Porter is easily the most major player in the high-end fashion internet market, and it was independent from any of the conglomerates so it was able to carry designers from all of the different conglomerates.  Most of the fashion retail websites aren't able to carry the kind of range of products or can only carry them after their season has passed.  NAP has been able to get a huge range of products in their current season and get designer exclusives--they've done a magnificent job carving a niche for themselves.  People make a big deal about their online magazine that they put out every week, but honestly as a regular consumer of theirs, I don't care two straws about their magazine.  All I care about is whether they were able to get in stock any of the particular hard to find item that I MUST HAVE.  So far, they've always been able to.

Richemont, a Swiss Conglomerate that owns Cartier and other high-end brands has promised that they are leaving NAP's founder Natalie Massenet in charge and will not be integrating it with their other companies.  It is hoped that this will allow for NAP to broker retail deals with competing conglomerates and continue with their success.  I'm not sure that it will pan out like that.  One of the things that made NAP so successful was that it was a third party to the fashion houses and now it will lose that advantageous aspect.  I'm really curious if the other conglomerates will buy into the idea that Richemont isn't meddling in NAP and allow for it to continue to be a retail outlet.  I think that Richemont will maintain this kind of hands-off approach for the next while but I think that over the long term they will probably seek to slowly integrate it with their other brands and use it as a huge internet portal to sell their goods--this would give them a massive advantage over the other conglomerates because none of the others have been able to either acquire such a portal or build one on their own.  LVMH tried with eluxury but failed.  With internet commerce becoming such an important aspect of luxury retail I think over time the concept of further brand integration will prove to be simply too irresistible to Richemont.  I'm not sure if that will be a great thing or not, but it will be different.  That kinda makes me sad.

Pictures of Stella McCartney items from Net-A-Porter.  Thanks to a faithful reader to suggesting the topic!

Links of The Week!

Hey everyone!  Guess what?!

I was featured as one of the links of the week for the Independent Fashion Bloggers!  Holy smokes, go figure!  And, thanks to one of my readers who gave me the topic that got me in--my post about Qiviut.  :-)

Thinking Fashion

Edited by Retro Chick

It never ceases to amaze me the quality and variety of links that get submitted to IFB each week and how hard it is to pick just 20. Fashion & Style Bloggers are intelligent, thoughtful and insightful people who really understand their subject. Whether it’s Second Hand Shopper questioning the distinction between fashion and style, Shrimp Salad Circus discussing how much of ourselves we should put into our blogs or a whole plethora of posts on the subject of body image.

Of course, we also love a bargain and this week we have a DIY Pillbox Hat, tips on thrift shopping the Spring trends and a gorgeous giveaway.

I really would urge you to take the time to check out the links that didn’t make it in the forums. I don’t think there’s a bad post among them….

Links à la Mode : April 1

• Alyson Is Neat – Revealing secrets on how to go into a store and not purchase clothing.
• Awakened Aesthetic – How to live green, without giving up the “unethical” stuff you already have.
• blackdog finds – How to Thrift Shop for Spring 2010 Fashion Trends:
• British Style Bloggers – A preview of the finalé of British Style Bloggers’ Body Image Season, including a random and rambling tour of BSB’s head office (aka my house).
• DailyDivaDish – Spanx for Men: Is shapewear for men really going mainstream? Why I think it’s a bad idea.
• Despising Life is So Passe – Pillbox Hat DIY
• Eternal Masquerade – Monroe Monday: A Look At What the Wardrobe Should Mean to Every Woman
• Grit and Glamour – A signature fragrance is your invisible identity—it becomes part of your brand
• High Fashion Girl – I write about Lady Gaga like you’ve NEVER read about her before.
• Idiosyncratic Style – A Peek at the life and style of illustrator Rachelle Scarfo
• Independent Fashion Bloggers – How to make your blog mobile friendly
• Oh, the Places You'll Go! – Fatsionable Art and Inspiration from Eva Hannah.
• Retro Chick – How every girl can be a Princess
• Second Hand Shopper – Second hand shopper pits the escapism of fashion against the expressionism of style
• Shoulderache & The Closet – The most expensive wool in the world!
• Shrimp Salad Circus – How much of yourself should you put ‘out there?’
• The Demoiselles – Graceful Empowerment Comes in All Forms (including that of eating the other guy’s tacos).
• The Greyest Ghost – Behind the scenes of the Chanel f/w 2010 ad campaign in NYC with Abbey Lee Kershaw, Freja Beha Erichsen, and Karl Lagerfeld.
• The New Wave – Going once, going twice, SOLD! A visit to the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection auction.
• The Well-Appointed Catwalk – Highlights and my impressions of “Health Matters: Weight and Wellness in the World of Fashion,” a panel discussion I attended featuring Anna Wintour, Michael Kors and Natalia Vodianova.
• True Queen – Examining the use of fur by designers on the runways of the Fall 2010 fashion shows.
• Unfunded – Unfunded teams up with the U.K. retailer NEXT for an awesome giveaway!

Dacron, Because Polyester Has A Brand Name Too

There are so many bizarrely-named fabrics out there.  Most sound like they are named by aliens or by scientists wishing to instill a sense of foreboding in the wearers of the materials.  One of these is "dacron."  Dacron is a real something.  It is the DuPont registered name for a particular kind of synthetic material, a kind of polyester.  I'm not sure of the exact date of the patent on the material, but it seems to have been used for clothing since sometime in the 1960's.

Dacron has a myriad of uses that the DuPont marketing team has dreamed up.  It goes on plane wings, is used to repair veins and arteries and naturally, you can make dresses out of it.  Usually, these dresses are vintage as most clothing manufacturers do not bother listing the particular brand name of a polyester, probably because the brand awareness among consumers is next to nothing and it would probably just create confusion.  Based on my research, the dacron is usually used in knitwear and at least in vintage wear, by high-end designers.  And, if I'm not mistaken, dacron is the synthetic element in the classic St. John Santana Knit.

One of the designers who has used dacron is Rudi Gernreich.  I'm sure I'll blather on about her in another post sometime in the future, but today we talk about the materials she used.  The dress pictured is made out of 100% knit dacron.  It looks really nice, it hangs well and since it is vintage, it can clearly last a good long while.  Its really interesting to think that the material used in this lovely dress is probably the same stuff used to patch your grandfather's arteries during heart surgery--imagine such a versatile material that one day it can be manufactured into a lovely designer dress and the next it is made into surgical patches.  The cool part is that if you decide to wear it on your outside, you'll look fabulous!

Pictures have been graciously provided by ricysue, who has a variety of dacron dresses as well a myriad of other lovely things.

For my blog post about Azlon, a related fabric, click HERE

Qiviut: Cashmere From An Ancient Goat

I don't think that most people realize it, but cashmere is from a Mongolian goat.  Most people don't like goats--they smell, they scavenge, they don't always make the best pets.  But, their hair is amazing.  There are many different kinds of goats and several of these produce hair that is worth wearing.  The most sought after is hands-down musk ox hair.  The traditional name for it is "qiviut".  The musk ox is basically a giant goat left over from the last Ice Age.  It dwells in northern arctic regions like parts of Alaska and Canada.  It is endangered due to over hunting.  It is not endangered because people like to make scarves from its hair, like some websites suggest.  The opposite is true--it is its hair that has proved to be its saving grace.

One of the key theories involved in saving endangered species is to figure out how to make them "economically necessary" to save.  Since the musk ox makes hair that is of even higher quality than any cashmere, some researchers have taken it upon themselves to figure out how to collect the hair, produce goods from it and then market it to the public.  One of those is The Musk Ox Farm where musk ox are bred and their hair is humanely collected for use by native Alaskans.  The hair is either combed off of the oxen or collected off of the ground when it is shed.  No musk oxen are harmed in the process.  Once the hair is collected, it is distributed to people in the Oomingmak Cooperative where they spin the hair into yarn and then knit it into products.  After that, the goods are collected by the Cooperative and then sold.

Qiviut has proven to be ounce for ounce the most expensive wool on the planet.  That isn't due to some sort of marketing gimmick--it is because it is the highest-quality wool on the planet as far as hair diameter, warmth-retention and shrink-resistance.  Due to the Endangered status of the animals, not very much of the hair is collected for commercial purposes each year, so due to the supply being so small and the demand so great, the price is rather steep.  But, as the saying goes, "you get what you pay for."

As a result, one of the only places to buy Qiviut products is from The Oomingmak Cooperative Store.  What makes shopping from them so cool is that their goods are made by Native Alaskan artisans, so their prints are traditional ones that can't be found anywhere else.  Not only are they producing stylish, unique items but it also allows families who chose to maintain their traditional lifestyle to do so.  Knitting qiviut is a traditional craft and the Cooperative helps make this traditional art economically important enough to keep it going, which in this modern age is something that is socially and culturally essential.  The patterns that they use might be otherwise forever lost to the world if the Cooperative hadn't been established.  One of my favorite patterns is on a scarf--it is a very old pattern that has been found on hunting spears.  Its pretty and I like it.

I always hear people complain that fashion is shallow.  No, it isn't.  Buy a scarf and help save an endangered species and an endangered way of life.

Top picture from Jungle Noises, Bottom Picture from Oomingmak Cooperative

For my post about mohair, click HERE

Russian Construtivism, Franz Ferdinand and You

I am, for whatever reason, hooked again on Franz Ferdinand's "Take Me Out".  I kinda blame The Thinking Fashionista or maybe its just that I really love the song.  The music video is awesome.  If you haven't seen it, you must click the link and watch it on their YouTube channel.  It doesn't help that I'm a huge Russian/Soviet Constructivism nerd--the music video plays into that perfectly.  That art style is a direct reaction against "art for art's sake" and instead moves to serve a direct social purpose.  Its mostly from the NEP era and the most quintessential piece is THE MAN WITH THE MOVIE CAMERA (movie poster pictured).  If you haven't seen the MAN WITH THE MOVIE CAMERA, you really should.  It was a groundbreaking piece and is still wildly influential.

So, after lots of gaping at YouTube, I decided that wearing clothes inspired by the music video was a must.  One of the things I came up with is this Temperly tattoo-lace mini dress.  The boobs have eyes.  This dress fits perfectly with the music video--its color scheme matches exactly, parts of it look like altogether different objects and its got that dada/fantasy quality about it.  Not only does it look kinda like a high-fashion Constructivist fantasy, but it is also flattering.  Notice the contrasting side panels--those hit perfectly to minimize the hips.  Also, the lines on the abdomen are curved in such a way to create an optical illusion that the waist is smaller.  This is a pretty neat looking dress and it isn't for everyone, but it certainly has a place in the world.

Another dress that seems appropriate is the Roksanda Ilincic Sunrise lame' dress.  I know, it is terribly simplistic to watch the video and get "art deco robot"  out of it.  But, you have to admit that this dress works like that.  Its a classic shift cut and the color reminds me of old hand-painted photos from the 1920s.  I like that the bandages/stripes are slightly skewed, it makes it kinda quirky and like it is some kind of prototype made out of parts found around the lab.  But, it doesn't go overboard to where it looks like a costume.  Its actually really fashionable and wearable.  Granted, you would have to wait for a particular occasion to wear it, but its a really fabulous dress.

I have no idea why, but stuff inspired by Soviet Constructivist artwork is absolutely intriguing.  Its such a different, stylized concept of what beauty and life are.  And, Franz Ferdinand is just plain cool.

Movie poster is public domain and two dresses are from Net-A-Porter

You may also be interested in my posts about more Construtivist/Art Deco inspired fashions and The History of Fortuny

Ebay Round-up!

I know, some people can't stand ebay.  But, I have to say that there are some great sellers and sometimes it literally is the only place in the world to find stuff.  Here's what I've come across today!

One of a kind Koi Suwannagate tank top.  It is hand sculpted by Koi, so it is basically a one of a kind piece made by her or her studio.  I'm not sure if she is the one physically doing the making or if she's directing her staff to do it on her behalf.  This is different than her ready to wear stuff that is sold in department stores--these are sold in a password protected area of her website.  Its so hard to find, so it is cool to see it for sale!

Embroidered TSE skirt.  I love this skirt, I think its adorable.  The embroidery is fantastic and TSE always makes great stuff.  Plus, its silk.  Its a can't-go-wrong kind of skirt.  Besides the listing price on this one is way super cheap, so it is a steal!

Vintage Pucci skirt.  This thing is insane.  It is a huge, full-length velvet Pucci skirt in vintage mint condition.  With 2 days left and no reserve its going for about $2.  Its stunning and about a size 4.  It is green with flowers and I'm seriously considering bidding because these things almost never come up for auction.  Its basically a museum piece and is amazing!

Prada Fairy shoes.  New in box Prada heels from the Fairy collection a few seasons ago--so pretty!  I absolutely loved that collection.  It was a perfect counter-balance to the world becoming an even worse mess.  It was so pretty up against everything so ugly.  These are size 7.5 and are in new condition.  They are the purple and green combo and come in that super cute box with the fairy characters.  Adorable!

Please note:  by posting this, I am not personally vouching for these sellers, but to the best of my knowledge the items linked on this page are authentic.

Jeggings: A Stupid Trend

There are some trends that I refuse to subscribe to.  Stuff like harem pants, counterfeit goods, Juicy suits.  Jeggings would be now another one of them.  What are "jeggings" you ask?  They are exactly what they sound like.  Basically, jeans as leggings.

I should state plainly, I don't like leggings.  I haven't worn them since I was a little kid.  There's an obvious reason--they aren't clothes and they aren't supposed to be worn when you're older than 10.  No one wants to see you wearing a skin-tight synthetic casing around your lower half.  Not seemly.  Not good.  Just don't.  That's why this whole jeggings thing disagrees with me.  People will now be using it as an excuse to wear something that they just shouldn't.

This is a pair of the offenders.  They are Paige Denim Verdugo Jeggings.  They're grey so they aren't probably the best idea even if they were real denim.  Now, I like denim.  Jeans are great, especially dark blue.  Grey, at least to me, looks like a trend that is nearly up and in a few months from now no one will make it.  I can't remember the last time I actually saw someone in person wearing grey jeans.  Grey jeggings is a combination of all that is wrong with each individual component.  Grey denim isn't particularly stylish, at least not any more.  Jeggings show every lump and sag that you never wanted to reveal to the world at large.  Now, you can have lower extremity coverings that are both unflattering and nearly done as a style!  Super.

Another offender is the J Brand Mid-Blue Denim Stretch Legging.  The pants that are no one's friend.  If these were normal denim, I'd like the wash.  Solid-blue jeans are classic and go with pretty much everything and are appropriate for basically everything.  Solid blue jeggings are not a good idea.  Leggings are a sure recipe for the much dreaded camel-toe.  I can't imagine how much more uncomfortable (for the wearer and the viewer) it would be in jeggings.

I realize that there are detractors that are sure this trend is the coolest thing this week.  I beg to differ.  Jeggings are at best something that Paris Hilton wears while jogging.  Notice how even Paris Hilton has the good sense to relegate them to merely athletic-wear.  That should probably be a hint.

Top pair is from Shop Bop and the second pair is from Net-A-Porter

And for more commentary about jeggings gone even more wrong, see my post about Pajama Jeans.  You know you wanna.