Dacron, Because Polyester Has A Brand Name Too

There are so many bizarrely-named fabrics out there.  Most sound like they are named by aliens or by scientists wishing to instill a sense of foreboding in the wearers of the materials.  One of these is "dacron."  Dacron is a real something.  It is the DuPont registered name for a particular kind of synthetic material, a kind of polyester.  I'm not sure of the exact date of the patent on the material, but it seems to have been used for clothing since sometime in the 1960's.

Dacron has a myriad of uses that the DuPont marketing team has dreamed up.  It goes on plane wings, is used to repair veins and arteries and naturally, you can make dresses out of it.  Usually, these dresses are vintage as most clothing manufacturers do not bother listing the particular brand name of a polyester, probably because the brand awareness among consumers is next to nothing and it would probably just create confusion.  Based on my research, the dacron is usually used in knitwear and at least in vintage wear, by high-end designers.  And, if I'm not mistaken, dacron is the synthetic element in the classic St. John Santana Knit.

One of the designers who has used dacron is Rudi Gernreich.  I'm sure I'll blather on about her in another post sometime in the future, but today we talk about the materials she used.  The dress pictured is made out of 100% knit dacron.  It looks really nice, it hangs well and since it is vintage, it can clearly last a good long while.  Its really interesting to think that the material used in this lovely dress is probably the same stuff used to patch your grandfather's arteries during heart surgery--imagine such a versatile material that one day it can be manufactured into a lovely designer dress and the next it is made into surgical patches.  The cool part is that if you decide to wear it on your outside, you'll look fabulous!

Pictures have been graciously provided by ricysue, who has a variety of dacron dresses as well a myriad of other lovely things.

For my blog post about Azlon, a related fabric, click HERE

Qiviut: Cashmere From An Ancient Goat

I don't think that most people realize it, but cashmere is from a Mongolian goat.  Most people don't like goats--they smell, they scavenge, they don't always make the best pets.  But, their hair is amazing.  There are many different kinds of goats and several of these produce hair that is worth wearing.  The most sought after is hands-down musk ox hair.  The traditional name for it is "qiviut".  The musk ox is basically a giant goat left over from the last Ice Age.  It dwells in northern arctic regions like parts of Alaska and Canada.  It is endangered due to over hunting.  It is not endangered because people like to make scarves from its hair, like some websites suggest.  The opposite is true--it is its hair that has proved to be its saving grace.

One of the key theories involved in saving endangered species is to figure out how to make them "economically necessary" to save.  Since the musk ox makes hair that is of even higher quality than any cashmere, some researchers have taken it upon themselves to figure out how to collect the hair, produce goods from it and then market it to the public.  One of those is The Musk Ox Farm where musk ox are bred and their hair is humanely collected for use by native Alaskans.  The hair is either combed off of the oxen or collected off of the ground when it is shed.  No musk oxen are harmed in the process.  Once the hair is collected, it is distributed to people in the Oomingmak Cooperative where they spin the hair into yarn and then knit it into products.  After that, the goods are collected by the Cooperative and then sold.

Qiviut has proven to be ounce for ounce the most expensive wool on the planet.  That isn't due to some sort of marketing gimmick--it is because it is the highest-quality wool on the planet as far as hair diameter, warmth-retention and shrink-resistance.  Due to the Endangered status of the animals, not very much of the hair is collected for commercial purposes each year, so due to the supply being so small and the demand so great, the price is rather steep.  But, as the saying goes, "you get what you pay for."

As a result, one of the only places to buy Qiviut products is from The Oomingmak Cooperative Store.  What makes shopping from them so cool is that their goods are made by Native Alaskan artisans, so their prints are traditional ones that can't be found anywhere else.  Not only are they producing stylish, unique items but it also allows families who chose to maintain their traditional lifestyle to do so.  Knitting qiviut is a traditional craft and the Cooperative helps make this traditional art economically important enough to keep it going, which in this modern age is something that is socially and culturally essential.  The patterns that they use might be otherwise forever lost to the world if the Cooperative hadn't been established.  One of my favorite patterns is on a scarf--it is a very old pattern that has been found on hunting spears.  Its pretty and I like it.

I always hear people complain that fashion is shallow.  No, it isn't.  Buy a scarf and help save an endangered species and an endangered way of life.

Top picture from Jungle Noises, Bottom Picture from Oomingmak Cooperative

For my post about mohair, click HERE

Russian Construtivism, Franz Ferdinand and You

I am, for whatever reason, hooked again on Franz Ferdinand's "Take Me Out".  I kinda blame The Thinking Fashionista or maybe its just that I really love the song.  The music video is awesome.  If you haven't seen it, you must click the link and watch it on their YouTube channel.  It doesn't help that I'm a huge Russian/Soviet Constructivism nerd--the music video plays into that perfectly.  That art style is a direct reaction against "art for art's sake" and instead moves to serve a direct social purpose.  Its mostly from the NEP era and the most quintessential piece is THE MAN WITH THE MOVIE CAMERA (movie poster pictured).  If you haven't seen the MAN WITH THE MOVIE CAMERA, you really should.  It was a groundbreaking piece and is still wildly influential.

So, after lots of gaping at YouTube, I decided that wearing clothes inspired by the music video was a must.  One of the things I came up with is this Temperly tattoo-lace mini dress.  The boobs have eyes.  This dress fits perfectly with the music video--its color scheme matches exactly, parts of it look like altogether different objects and its got that dada/fantasy quality about it.  Not only does it look kinda like a high-fashion Constructivist fantasy, but it is also flattering.  Notice the contrasting side panels--those hit perfectly to minimize the hips.  Also, the lines on the abdomen are curved in such a way to create an optical illusion that the waist is smaller.  This is a pretty neat looking dress and it isn't for everyone, but it certainly has a place in the world.

Another dress that seems appropriate is the Roksanda Ilincic Sunrise lame' dress.  I know, it is terribly simplistic to watch the video and get "art deco robot"  out of it.  But, you have to admit that this dress works like that.  Its a classic shift cut and the color reminds me of old hand-painted photos from the 1920s.  I like that the bandages/stripes are slightly skewed, it makes it kinda quirky and like it is some kind of prototype made out of parts found around the lab.  But, it doesn't go overboard to where it looks like a costume.  Its actually really fashionable and wearable.  Granted, you would have to wait for a particular occasion to wear it, but its a really fabulous dress.

I have no idea why, but stuff inspired by Soviet Constructivist artwork is absolutely intriguing.  Its such a different, stylized concept of what beauty and life are.  And, Franz Ferdinand is just plain cool.

Movie poster is public domain and two dresses are from Net-A-Porter

You may also be interested in my posts about more Construtivist/Art Deco inspired fashions and The History of Fortuny

Ebay Round-up!

I know, some people can't stand ebay.  But, I have to say that there are some great sellers and sometimes it literally is the only place in the world to find stuff.  Here's what I've come across today!

One of a kind Koi Suwannagate tank top.  It is hand sculpted by Koi, so it is basically a one of a kind piece made by her or her studio.  I'm not sure if she is the one physically doing the making or if she's directing her staff to do it on her behalf.  This is different than her ready to wear stuff that is sold in department stores--these are sold in a password protected area of her website.  Its so hard to find, so it is cool to see it for sale!

Embroidered TSE skirt.  I love this skirt, I think its adorable.  The embroidery is fantastic and TSE always makes great stuff.  Plus, its silk.  Its a can't-go-wrong kind of skirt.  Besides the listing price on this one is way super cheap, so it is a steal!

Vintage Pucci skirt.  This thing is insane.  It is a huge, full-length velvet Pucci skirt in vintage mint condition.  With 2 days left and no reserve its going for about $2.  Its stunning and about a size 4.  It is green with flowers and I'm seriously considering bidding because these things almost never come up for auction.  Its basically a museum piece and is amazing!

Prada Fairy shoes.  New in box Prada heels from the Fairy collection a few seasons ago--so pretty!  I absolutely loved that collection.  It was a perfect counter-balance to the world becoming an even worse mess.  It was so pretty up against everything so ugly.  These are size 7.5 and are in new condition.  They are the purple and green combo and come in that super cute box with the fairy characters.  Adorable!

Please note:  by posting this, I am not personally vouching for these sellers, but to the best of my knowledge the items linked on this page are authentic.

Jeggings: A Stupid Trend

There are some trends that I refuse to subscribe to.  Stuff like harem pants, counterfeit goods, Juicy suits.  Jeggings would be now another one of them.  What are "jeggings" you ask?  They are exactly what they sound like.  Basically, jeans as leggings.

I should state plainly, I don't like leggings.  I haven't worn them since I was a little kid.  There's an obvious reason--they aren't clothes and they aren't supposed to be worn when you're older than 10.  No one wants to see you wearing a skin-tight synthetic casing around your lower half.  Not seemly.  Not good.  Just don't.  That's why this whole jeggings thing disagrees with me.  People will now be using it as an excuse to wear something that they just shouldn't.

This is a pair of the offenders.  They are Paige Denim Verdugo Jeggings.  They're grey so they aren't probably the best idea even if they were real denim.  Now, I like denim.  Jeans are great, especially dark blue.  Grey, at least to me, looks like a trend that is nearly up and in a few months from now no one will make it.  I can't remember the last time I actually saw someone in person wearing grey jeans.  Grey jeggings is a combination of all that is wrong with each individual component.  Grey denim isn't particularly stylish, at least not any more.  Jeggings show every lump and sag that you never wanted to reveal to the world at large.  Now, you can have lower extremity coverings that are both unflattering and nearly done as a style!  Super.

Another offender is the J Brand Mid-Blue Denim Stretch Legging.  The pants that are no one's friend.  If these were normal denim, I'd like the wash.  Solid-blue jeans are classic and go with pretty much everything and are appropriate for basically everything.  Solid blue jeggings are not a good idea.  Leggings are a sure recipe for the much dreaded camel-toe.  I can't imagine how much more uncomfortable (for the wearer and the viewer) it would be in jeggings.

I realize that there are detractors that are sure this trend is the coolest thing this week.  I beg to differ.  Jeggings are at best something that Paris Hilton wears while jogging.  Notice how even Paris Hilton has the good sense to relegate them to merely athletic-wear.  That should probably be a hint.

Top pair is from Shop Bop and the second pair is from Net-A-Porter

And for more commentary about jeggings gone even more wrong, see my post about Pajama Jeans.  You know you wanna.

Not Everything Is Wrong, Thanks To Marni

There are some days that you just want to have the right to tell someone "no, you're wrong.  I see right through you.  I don't like what I see.  Please stop talking."  But, that isn't always possible.  Today was one of those days.  To balance it out, I found some dresses to say "You're right" to.

This one is a light blue and silver Marni dress that is currently on sale on their website.  Its just...sweet.  The print is like houndstooth but with everything turned caddy-corner so it comes out looking traditional yet playful.  The color combination is so classic, that silver and blue combo has been popular since at least the Renaissance.  It certainly won't go out of style now.  What makes the dress really adorable is that ribbon that ties at the top of the back.  It completes the look perfectly and contrasts wonderfully.  The whole cut of the dress is nice, it isn't easy do to a shift with a gathered neck and have it avoid looking like a parachute or umbrella.  I tried finding the runway look to compare it to but there isn't one.  The dress is its own look entirely.  The print isn't even in the fall 2009 show, or the prefall show or the 2009 summer runway show.  I love that Consuelo knew that even though it didn't make the cut for the show that women would still love it and offered it for sale.  You're right, Conseulo.

Another dress is one of the looks from the Marni 2009 fall runway show.  Even though it is a winter look, something about it just feels reassuringly like spring is coming and that everything is going to be warm and growing soon.  The print is a classic looking vintage floral blown up larger than it ordinarily would have been used for a garment.  The cut of the dress has all of the seams to be a New Look dress but with different volume proportions, so modern yet referential to one of the highest points in women's wear design.  It is paired with accessories that it never would have been paired with in the golden age of Dior--a costume bib necklace, argyle tights and man-ish ski gloves.  It takes the look from looking like purely a reinterpretation of a classic look into its own, modern combination for a woman who enjoys the sprit of the past but isn't afraid to embrace the future or even to take what usually only is reserved for men.  You're right, Consuelo.

There, that makes me feel better.  Things balance out and there are things in the universe that are entirely right.

Top picture from Marni and bottom picture from Style

Brian Reyes and The Search For The Spring Dress

Meh, I'm still wandering around looking for spring/summer dresses that I like.  There are millions of dresses out there and I always feel like I need to see what's out there before I really decide anything.  There are so many great designers out there that don't get much press even though they make wonderful things that I'd absolutely love to wear.  I have no idea why they get largely ignored, but it means I end up spending lots of time cruising around the 'net looking to see what I can find.

One of the designers that is a great new talent but gets kinda forgotten is Brian Reyes.  He's an American designer that shows at New York Fashion Week.  He occasionally gets featured in magazines but not with any regularity.  That's pretty disappointing considering he makes some cute, wearable clothes.  He's one of the few designers that isn't afraid to use print and color and I totally love it.

In his Spring Summer 2010 show he had a whole series of dresses in a shagreen print.  Shagreen is the textile from stingray leather, it has a kind of pebbled/mosaic print.  Its a really beautiful natural material and I've never seen that reinterpreted as a fabric print.  Not only is the print of these dresses cute, but the cut is too.  They're cut to be flattering and young, perfect for spring.  They look like they would be great on a young woman, I like that they are sexy without being revealing.

It seems that some of the other prints in the runway show are inspired by the Rorschach test.  Designers are always doing prints like that but what makes this ink blot print so cool are the colors.  The colors just make me smile, they are fabulously youthful and spring.  I love this dress, only I want to make it about 3 inches longer (or, since I'm shorter than the model it would hit at the spot I want) and then put a contrasting belt over it.  That is exactly the kind of things I like to wear.  I know I probably shouldn't say this, but that print looks great for disguising random food and coffee stains and like if it was a really hot, sweaty day you wouldn't be able to tell.  Probably not what most people think when they are looking for a dress, but lets face it, its reality.

Brian Reyes is a wonderful Columbian-American designer who is making beautiful clothes for young women.  I know, these dresses aren't really for everyone because not everyone wants to wear bright ink blots all over them, but they certainly fill a void in the fashion world.  I'm excited to watch how his career progresses, we can't have enough designers that aren't afraid to take risks with color and print!

Pictures from Style