Shoulderache & The Closet

Higher Commodity Prices Hit Fashion

2011-02-20T09:56:00.000-07:00

One of the things that makes the fashion industry so great is the fact that it is global. Ideas and people swirl around the world and normally it equals better fashion. Well, it also equals higher prices. Commodity prices have soared lately.

Fashion is the "textile industry"--I think they give it that name so that men in suits don't feel like they're talking about "womens' concerns", but that discussion is for another day. The cost of your favorite new dress directly correlates to the price of raw materials around the world. In the last 12 months, prices have skyrocketed.

Cotton prices are the highest they've been since the US Civil War. In the 1860s, prices were so high due to war and blockade. Now, it is a combination of ruined crops in Pakistan and Australia, coupled with growing demand around the world. Higher demand plus lower supply equals higher prices. That means your dress is going to be more costly.

Its not just cotton that is pricier. Silk, leather, cashmere, fiber for synthetics, etc.... have all gotten more expensive. Much of it is due to higher demand, transportation costs and in the case of vegetable fibers, failed crops. One of the largest sources of the rising demand is China. With the Chinese economy growing, the demand for garments and other textiles rises and so does the price of such things around the world.

What are designers doing about this? Midlevel designers have been rethinking their collections so that they use less or cheaper materials, in order to not have to raise their prices. For example, Luca Luca has been trying to order in bulk and use less fabric variety to keep the prices down. But, they were far enough into their Spring 2011 collection to where they've had to eat much of the cost increases. This is bad for fashion in the long term--when the designers become less profitable, it will be harder for them to survive changes in demand for their products and to invest in new talent and methods. This means lower quality items with less innovation. Hopefully next season Luca Luca will find a better way to deal with this than to eat the cost--it can only do that for so long before they'll have to fold, and then no more pretty dresses from them....

High-End designers are simply passing on the rise in costs to their consumers. So, if you want high-grade silk to line your blazer, you better be prepared to pay.

Information from Wall Street Journal and Luca Luca runway photo from Style

Huge Congrats to Narciss & Alise Trautmane!

2011-02-15T10:09:00.000-07:00

One of my favorite up-and-coming designers is Latvia-based Narciss led by Alise Trautmane. She knows what women want, and melds that Baltic/Eastern Europe sensibility with a good story and consequently consistently puts out designs that are beautiful & wearable. I think this company is one to watch!

Well, Narciss was named DESIGNER OF THE YEAR for Latvia by the Baltic Fashion Federation! I think it is a well-deserved honor for a designer that consistently does a great job.

To the left is a beautiful dress in her online store--its classic while being flattering and practical. Its something the average woman could actually wear and not feel ridiculous. It doesn't scream any particular season, instead it says "classic black dress". I love it!

I can't wait to see the new collection that Narciss is putting out in February 2011!

Picture from NARCISS

Kat Graham + Filhas de Gaia = Questionable Judgement

2011-02-14T20:55:00.000-07:00

I haven't seen a lot of great things out and about in the fashion world as of late. I don't know, maybe I'm looking in the wrong spots. One of these wrong spots if Kat Graham.

Ugh, she stepped out in public to the ASCAP Grammy Brunch wearing this horrible oneise jumpsuit thing by Filhas de Gaia. I'm sorry, but it looks like some sad saggy-crotch getup she stole from the reject wardrobe pile of DALLAS. I can't figure out why this is supposed to make her "aspirational" or an "IT Girl". It makes me wonder instead if she doesn't own a mirror. I'm so sad--the print is great and this designer does lots of great looks.

Filhas de Gaia is a great Brazilian designer that shows in Rio de Janeiro. The Spring 2011 collection was full of great looks--super cute cocktail dresses and wonderful clothes for a woman of Kat Graham's age. That's what makes me wonder so much at how she ended up in such an unflattering thing--she certainly had plenty to choose from. *SIGH* The world may never know.

Picture from WENN

Inspired by Shoson Prints--Time to BE Spring!!!!!

2011-02-05T10:14:00.000-07:00

I'm so sick of winter. The cold, in particular. I hate the cold, I hate the boring colors, I strongly dislike winter. I'm so tired of being trapped inside! I've found myself looking at Japanese Woodblocks and their beautiful images since a trip to a museum the other day and they make me look forward to spring like no other. One of my favorites is this one by Shoson of cherry blossoms and birds, the ultimate image of spring. I want everything to look like this right now!

Whenever I look at the Spring 2011 shows, I feel so annoyed. Almost everything is black and white! What's going on?! Where's the color and celebration of being able to leave the house and wear something pretty without being swaddled in layers and layers of black coat? Luckily, Dries van Noten had a few prints, and they remind me so much of Japanese woodblock prints. The yellow is so nice, so warm!

The back of this dress is just delicious!! I love it! I want it both on a dress and a blouse! The open back goes just low enough to be completely sexy and interesting but high enough to be able to find a bra to wear under it. Dries van Noten is one of the few designers who is consistently unafraid of prints and this season, I'm so happy to see it. I can just imagine wearing this on an early May day, out with friends.

This Spring 2011 Hanii Y dress just makes me sigh with relief! Its not black or beige or white! It looks like so much fun and thoroughly reminds me of the Shoson print. Its got the same colors and captures that same spirit of warmth and beauty. I love the shape, it isn't frumpy, and it looks like something that would be great to wear out on a Saturday when running errands.

I know I can always count on Tsumori Chisato for something colorful and happy! This Spring 2011 get-up just looks so "spring-y"! I love it! All of the color and print just makes me smile. The pink is that same pink in the Shoson print and just looks like candy. What really makes this outfit are the shoes. That little pop of yellow is the perfect finishing touch--like a warm vanilla sky sunset.

I'm so done with winter. I want to wear a skirt and ballet flats and not regret doing so. I want color and print and beauty. I wish the world always looked like a Shoson print!

Runway pictures from Style and Shoson print from Ronin Gallery

Garden Party with Erdem!

2011-01-31T10:12:00.001-07:00

Okay, so its no surprise. I'm currently obsessed with antique-y looking floral prints on dresses. I always have been. Not everyone makes them look like something worth wearing, however. One of the few who makes an awesome floral-print dress consistently beautiful is Erdem.

Erdem is a London-based design house led by Erdem Moralioglu. He's of Turkish/English descent from Montreal, Canada and worked for a year under Diane von Furstenberg. In 2005 he moved to London and started his own line. Since then he won the British Vogue Fashion Award and is recognized as one of the top up-and-coming designers. And, boy is he good!

One of the things he does so well is use print. That's so rare! His prints remind me of re-edited antique floral prints. The yellow with the red and pink reminds me of this woodblock print by Kono Bairei from 1880. To me, his dresses from Spring Summer 2011 look like he took prints like this, cut them up and made a collage and then painted over them with watercolors. Lovely!

Another thing I like so much is the fact that the prints are strategically place to take your eye to the most flattering parts of the dress. This dress is cut to slim the wearer and then the print leads the eye to the smallest part of the waist, the bust and then the hem to see the model's legs. Its like a giant sign to "ignore my hips and admire the fact that I have a lovely shape!" I love it!

Hands down, my favorite dress is the one. It totally reminds me of antique Japanese woodblock prints of flowers, but in a modern, wearable way. Love it! Plus, you can wear this dress on your fattest day and never look like you've had too many cupcakes. Its classic, its comfortable and its friggin pretty! I don't know if you've ever played with these dresses in person, but the silk is to die for. Erdem doesn't scrimp when it comes to materials. Not at all. Sure, his stuff is expensive but you get what you pay for! In this case, its silk worth wearing for the rest of your life.

Pictures from Erdem, woodblock print from A Private Collection

You may also be interested in my prior post about Peter Som

Chanel Spring/Summer 2011--Thug In A Cocktail Dress

2011-01-29T13:40:00.000-07:00

Just because a designer is main-stream doesn't mean that they should be ignored. Quite the opposite--they are the annointed taste-makers. And, well, I happen to like Chanel. Its classic, you really can go wrong with their suiting, so I'm usually excited to see their shows. Spring/Summer 2011 is no exception!

There were some really cute dresses in the show. Feminine, but tough, like someone in their 20s could wear them out for a fun night and not feel like they're robbed their grandmother or that they're looking like an Italian divorcee. My favorite was this black & white number, looks totally Chanel but still young and fun. I like the contrasting trim over the major seams, it gives the dress a nice shape and really makes the wearer look trim. I hate the shoes, they look like clunky bricks. Oh well. Can't win them all.

Another look I really liked was the art deco-inspired A-Line dress with the front bib and the tulle. I know, its a bit fussy, but its pretty! Its one of those dresses that you'd wear to a big event, but its interesting and it doesn't scream "I'm wearing Chanel! Out of my way bitches!!" Instead, the model looks very well dressed and doesn't fall prey to what Chanel sometimes does of just looking to...elderly.

Not everything in the show came up roses. In fact, a large portion of the looks just...sucked. Okay, so why is Karl Lagerfeld trying to dress Chanel-thugs? What's with the open golashes, booty shorts and just ugly? What's he thinking? Tweedy booty shorts? REALLY?! Does he picture women who wear Chanel out trying to pick up men in alleys? Girl looks like a thug. Another look I particularly disliked is the floral dress that I'm sad to say came from the Chanel show. Is it just me, or does it look like that horrible prairie dress that your aunt gives you when you're 7 and your mom makes you wear for the family portrait? It's even got that silly pilgrim collar, awkward length and frumpy waist. The way that the model is standing says it all--her pose makes me think that she's about ready to pull a HULK on it and rip it off. Poor girl, having to wear something so embarrassing.

The Chanel spring-summer 2011 show started out so nicely, with lovely tweed and ended with beautiful cocktail dresses. For some reason, the middle was filled with girls who looked like they were going to jump you for your hair clip. So sad! But, that doesn't take away from the fact that I needs to get me another tweedy jacket....

Pictures from Style

You may also be interested in a prior post about Chanel Accessories

Vicuna--A Sweater Fit For The Sapa Inca

2011-01-24T13:59:00.001-07:00

There's more variety to protein fibers than just wool & cashmere. There's all kinds of different animals woolens can be produced from! One of these is Vicuna, the hair from the vicuna animal of Peru. Traditionally, vicuna in Incan culture was so valuable that it was only for the royals to wear. Vicuna or Vicugna, is considered to be the finest and softest wool in the world at 12 micrometers in diameter--the fibers are only 70% as wide as cashmere and even better at trapping warmth. It is so fine that normally, it is left its natural color for fear that dyes will ruin it.

Vicuna is a threatened species of camelid (camel!) native to Peru, Chile, Bolivia and other parts of South America, previously endangered. What has allowed this species to come back from the brink is its wool. The Peruvian government made it its national animal and came up with a scheme to bring both jobs to the locals and save the animal. Once a year, the locals hold a Chaccu, a traditional shearing ceremony where the vicuna are rounded up, shorn and then released. A vicuna can only be shorn every 3 years and there are specific standards for how long the hair can be in order to be shorn. This system of only allowing vicuna wool to be harvested in specific situations and the ending of vicuna hunting has allowed the species to bounce back and become a very valuable commodity to the community. The practices that are currently being followed are considered sustainable and vicuna is an eco-friendly textile.

There are some things to beware of. Despite the best efforts of the Peruvian officials and community, there is an illegal trade in vicuna. Because of this, several countries have outright banned it and many require an official certificate that it was legally harvested. Make sure that you purchase your vicuna from a legitimate source and try to stick to an established, reputable company like Loro Piano or Jacques Cartier yarns. Also, if you really look closely at most of the items that come up when you search "vicuna"--you'll notice that they're not ACTUALLY made of vicuna, instead vicuna is just the name of the color. Don't be fooled and get stuck with lamb's wool! The high price of vicuna is worth it!

Pictures from Livanti Alpacas and The Guardian

You may also be interested in my prior posts about Qiviut and Ramie

Barbara Tfank & Reimagined Antique Print Dresses!

2011-01-18T11:54:00.001-07:00

Its no secret. I'm a huge sucker for print dresses. I LOVE them. I don't know why. Clothes shouldn't be boring; flowers make me happy. One of the designers who constantly delivers some of the coolest print dresses is Barbara Tfank.

Barbara Tfank is a Los Angeles-based designer. She got her start in fashion as a costume designer in Hollywood and then started her own line in 2001. And, I think she does amazing stuff with print fabric!

One of my favorite pieces from her Spring Summer 2011 collection is the floral dress on the right. The cut is absolutely classic--all at once femme fatale Art Deco but also somehow 1960s flower child. What makes it really modern is the pleating at the neck that's so hot right now. Also, the cute little cap sleeves are ADORABLE!

The print of the fabric looks like redone antique flower lithographs--classic and beautiful but unique. You don't see it every day, probably because its easy to make that kind of print look like you stole your grandmother's curtains and made a toga. What makes this print work is that the dress cut is so modern and wearable that it balances out the possible stuffy-ness of the print.

Sure, its the height of winter but I can't stop thinking about how nice it would be to sit in a garden full of tulips and wear this dress!

Dress picture from style.com, antique flower print from Collectors Prints

You may be interested in reading my prior post about Barbara Tfank

Materials Management Relief Corps--Fashion Gives Back

2011-01-13T13:14:00.000-07:00

Fashion gets a bad rap that it is all superficial and doesn't really contribute to the things in society that matter. That's entirely not true! A great example of that lately is Paul Sebring, fashion photographer, who stepped up and is making a difference in Haiti.

Paul Sebring owned a photography company, Sebring Photography, in the Phoenix, Arizona metro area and was climbing the ranks. He was photographing the likes of Avril Lavigne, Noelle Wheeler, Mark Salling of Glee, Julianne Hough, and Doug Reinhardt. Paul was really starting to establish himself and make a name in the fashion world. It had been a long, hard road but it was really starting to go somewhere.

Paul Sebring knew as soon as the earthquake in Haiti happened that he needed to go and help. He had no idea what that help was going to look like, other than it was going to be hard, messy and going to take some commitment. When he first went in 2010, he was just supposed to be there for 3 weeks. He didn't put his stuff in storage, he didn't cancel his lease, he just went on a short term aid project. But, once he was there, he knew that he had found his passion. Once he was back in the US, he quickly started working on starting his organization with Paul Waggoner known as Materials Management Relief Corps--MMRC.

Big Paul (Paul Sebring) and Little Paul (Paul Waggoner) saw that there was a huge void in the delivery of aid services in Haiti--there was no one to transport and distribute the aid materials. Aid poured in from around the world, but it was sitting in warehouses and tarmacs and not in the hands of those who needed it. MMRC's mission is to transport goods and people around Haiti for the better delivery of humanitarian services. They aren't looking to make a profit, they're looking to make a difference. They've encountered some major obstacles in their path so far, like their vehicles breaking down and Paul Waggoner being arrested on charges of using voo-doo to steal children. Paul Waggoner was released and cleared of charges and donors have stepped in to help have the vehicles be repaired.

With the one year anniversary of the Haiti Earthquake having come and gone and it looks like nothing much happened. But, that's not because people haven't stepped up and help. MMRC has helped rescue orphans, provide medicine and save countless lives. People in the fashion industry DO care about the world and are just as willing as anyone else to step up and help.

Photos from Big Paul's Blog. Don't be afraid to contact MMRC and ask how you can help!

Zuni Petit Point Jewelry--Something to be treasured!

2011-01-12T10:41:00.000-07:00

Jewelry is always an essential part of an outfit. Personally, I prefer to keep things rather minimal and understated. That's not to say that over the top isn't great too. But, one of my favorite things to wear has always been Native American jewelry. Maybe its because I live in the Southwest and its normal here, or maybe its from growing up with all of those Ralph Lauren ads, but I just love it. (By the way, it was Dee Morris who made most of the jewelry in the Ralph Lauren ads. He was based out of Sedona, Arizona and made some AMAZING pieces)

One of my favorite styles is Zuni. The Zuni tribe lives in New Mexico and is a Pueblo tribe. They are primarily agricultural and have a rich religious and cultural tradition. They learned silversmithing in about 1870 and many members of the tribe have gone on to be master craftspeople. The Petit Point style is one that is unique to the Zuni tribe. The pin to the right is a classic example. The turquoise is Kingman and is completely hand cut. The stones are bezel-set into the silver and the entire piece is hand-forged and from about 1970. What makes the style so unique is the settings--they are more or less bezel set, but have tiny prongs around the top that are sometimes decorative and sometimes functional. To set the stones, the larger ones are held in with matchsticks while the maker sets them, the smaller ones are held in with toothpicks. The pieces are kind of like a mosiac--lots of little stones, all methodically set next to each other to spell out a larger pattern and with the settings, has a sort of "embroidery" look to it, unlike any other style of jewelry. Traditionally, petit point jewelry is only for women to wear.

This piece is from Chief Dodge and is Zuni needlework (same as "petit point") with Sleeping Beauty turquoise. It is a vintage piece. I love it because it is so detailed and with very fine work, would go perfectly pinned on a black dress with several other pins. Its not too big, not too loud and is a very classic design. This piece, like so many others isn't signed, which is unfortunate because now we can never know what person took the time to make something so beautiful.

When it comes to Zuni petit point/needlework there are fakes out there, particularly coming from China. Be careful what you buy! Personally, I suggest that you buy from somewhere like Chief Dodge of Scottsdale because they only deal in authentic jewelry, have some of the best prices and have experts on site. Plus, they're really nice and carry just about every sort of style imaginable.

Veritable Wax Hollandais--Vlisco Prints!

2011-01-02T11:19:00.001-07:00

One of the most exciting fabric manufacturers in the world if Vlisco, the maker of Wax Hollandais fabrics. I know that I've written about them before, HERE, but due to the overwhelming interest I've received regarding that post, I've decided to write some more.

Vlisco started in 1846 in Helmond, Netherlands to take advantage of demand for batik fabrics. At first, the focus was on Indonesian batik fabrics, but demand in West Africa for vibrant, beautiful fabrics took off and that market has since become the sole focus of Vlisco. Currently, no fabrics are produced with Europe or US in mind, instead the focus in on Benin, Togo, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Nigeria, and surrounding countries. The consumer that Vlisco is meant for are the women of those countries who have their clothes custom made and are interested in beautiful clothes of lasting value. Vlisco is trying to branch out and be a fashion brand and not just a fabric manufacturer. They are currently opening Vlisco boutiques around the major cities of their target countries to cater to the tastes and trends of their customers.

At first, the fabrics were printed by hand with huge stamps but in 1910 the company started to transition into using mechanical printers. The last hand-printed fabric was produced in 1993. The fabric is produced by applying a specific kind of wax and then dye to high-grade fabrics. The process that Vlisco uses is proprietary, but that is the gist of it--the fabric is repeatedly stamped with wax and dye to form the print. The fabric itself isn't white--Vlisco uses a variety of base colors for their fabric, such as indigo, sepia, claret and related colors. This gives the colors of the fabric more vibrancy and depth. The wax that is used is made to crackle different every time, so the print that is produced is different in each spot and no piece of fabric is ever the same.

A new fabric collection is produced once a quarter, both because the customers want new prints regularly and to keep ahead of the copy-cats. My favorite print from the latest collection is part of the Gallery of Poems line. It's so cool! It reminds me of traditional perfume bottles, kinda Arabian Nights but not overwhelming. It would look so cool is a full, pleated skirt so that print could be seen but wouldn't look like a costume.

Vlisco is clearly one of the top producers of beautifully printed fabrics. Not only are the prints interesting and innovate but the quality of the fabric is worth wearing!

Image and information obtained from Vlisco and their representatives.

Pajama Jeans--The Apocalypse Has Arrived

2010-12-29T18:32:00.001-07:00

Lord have mercy. Humanity has discovered a way to make jeggings even worse. This is known as "pajama jeans".

I was watching Top Chef and minding my own business when this horrible commercial came on. "Jeans" for you to sleep in. Complete with fake fly affixed. Apparently, someone thinks that jeans are hard to get on and uncomfortable--my advice is to then buy the right size and quit trying to wear something you stole from a 14 year old.

Here is why I think Pajama Jeans are only fit to be thrown away, a completely stupid trend. Your pants should not pretend to be something they're not. These pants are not jeans, they're spandex tubes that you probably shouldn't wear. They're not going to do you any favors--no way they hide cellulite, lumps or saggy bottom disease. They make it worse. Also, you do not need to look fully dressed, complete with jeans when you are sleeping. Worse yet, there is no need to wander around in public in your pajamas. PLEASE DON'T. No one wants to see you in your pjs. That's why we make regular pants. Regular pants aren't scary, they are your friend and you should wear them.

One of my favorite things is that the UK chain store Tesco has banned shoppers from wandering their aisles while wearing their pajamas. Seems reasonable enough. But, for some bizarre reason, people have decided that they must circumvent this rule and have decided that Pajama Jeans are the way to go. Now, what on earth makes people try to avoid wearing normal pants at all costs?!

Sharon Wauchob--Pearls & Stitches

2010-12-26T15:52:00.000-07:00

One of the most exciting things to see in fashion is a designer who is obsessed with their materials. Sure, designers who are all about shape and color are cool. There's a real place for them. But, textiles are the THING that is fashion and I think many designers kinda forget to pay enough attention to it. Sharon Wauchob's obsession is with excellence in textiles and innovation in fabrics and materials.

Wauchob is an Irish designer who attended St. Martins and currently has both the creative director for both the Sharon Wauchob line and Edun. The Sharon Wauchob line is based in and shows in Paris; the line is finished in Paris but the textiles are fabricated around the world, with many being made in Japan. She previously worked for Louis Vuitton and Koji Tatsuno before she started her own line.

The black dress she had in her 2011 Spring show is something to be really excited about. It looks like...pearls are embroidered on?! I can't tell from the picture if it is pearls or embroidery, but this particular collection included such dresses and this looks like it should be one of them. See, I've been quite taken with the idea of clothes with real pearls applied to them for quite some time and I've just never seen this done--this makes me sooooo excited!! Its beautiful, classic but wearable, it's exactly what I want to wear this spring. The colors are ones that look great on everyone, the neckline is interesting and the print-effect of the fabric is beautiful. Love this dress!!

Another look in Wauchob's collection that was really something was the brown tone on tone suit. I know, it's very simple. But, its flattering and YOUNG looking. Its friggin hard to find a nice, beautiful suit as a young woman. They don't make them. But, here is one of those unicorns--a suit any woman can wear without making them look old and fashion-backward. The blazer is incredibly lovely and makes the model look slim and modern. The blouse is simple and feminine. The pants are flattering and comfortable looking. Also, the fabrics of the pieces look BEAUTIFUL. You just want to reach out and touch them. The look luscious and expensive. Sure, the look is simple but its really something work wearing. Wauchob is known for her "alternative" looks, but in this she shows that she can do all things, even classic.

The Sharon Wauchob line is absolutely lovely, not just for the basic design elements, but for the attention to detail and work put in towards using the best textiles. I mean, a dress with stripes made of pearls?!

Pictures from Style

Merry Christmas!!

2010-12-25T11:23:00.000-07:00

I hope that you and yours have a very Merry Christmas and a wonderful New Year!

And, of course, if you're going to partake in the eggnog, make sure you find some reindeer to get you home and don't try to do that yourself!

Be safe, have fun, and hug your mom!

2010: A Retrospective

2010-12-22T18:50:00.000-07:00

2010 was an okay year for fashion. There were some very clear trends. Not necessarily my favorite, but none of the designers asked my opinion!

One major trend was SEQUINS. God knows why. They do no one any favors. For some reason, everyone wanted to either look like they themselves were a giant disco ball or that they were at least carrying one. To the right is the Louis Vuitton AW 2010 bag that best illustrates this--Marc Jacobs, for whatever reason, took a perfectly great exotic skinned bag and coated the main part of it with black sequins. Hmmmm. Is it just me, or is this bag going to be quickly pawned off on little nieces or sold on ebay when people come to their senses?

See, what makes me dislike sequins so much is not only the fact that they look cheap and shiny. Its that they don't last. They fall off. They break. It's totally defeats the purpose of investing in some wonderful piece of fashion. Bah humbug!!

Another trend were the DRAPED SWEATERS. Not so bad! The one on the left is by FrostFrench and is a nice cashmere blend. Sure, many people appreciate buttoning their sweaters, but there is something nice about a well-draped sweater. This trend won't go on forever, but it's like everyone jumped on the Rick Owens bandwagon and considering I love Rick Owens, I'm okay with this. It's interesting, its comfortable and it at least feels like fashion instead of some of the cheap looking dreck that comes out regularly.

One of the other major trends was to put BOWS on everything. Personally, I hate bows. Yuck. Bad childhood memories of turtleneck shirts and skirts that my mother made me wear. But, apparently everyone loves the things. The Lanvin Printemps 2010 one pictured isn't so bad. Alber Elbaz has at least stuck it on the shoulder where it sorta blends in with the draping of the dress. So, it can be done in a less offensive manner so even someone like me with childhood trauma will consent to wear it. But, it's one of those trends best done in moderation. And, considering that it's just a trend and not any sort of "staple", make sure none of your investment pieces have it--my guess is that sometime over the next few seasons, you're going to find yourself pointing and laughing at people festooned with bows and you'll want a clear conscience that you don't secretly have a closet full of the stuff!

2010 wasn't so bad. There was a lot of new talent on the scene, it felt like more so than in previous years. The kind of innovation that they bring is fun and great for fashion! Luckily, there were minimal amounts of things that I saw that were outright shameful (other than JEGGINGS. I don't count those as clothes) and lets hope that they new year brings many more fun, beautiful and elegant things!

Photos from style.com and frostfrench.com

Merry Christmas!

2010-12-18T19:43:00.000-07:00

Wow, it's crazy to think that I've neglected to update my blog for so very long! I'm so sorry! To everyone who constantly clicks on it, THANK YOU!

I had no idea so many hundreds of people visit me a month. Apparently, people read what I write! So, for the new year, I am going to be making a better effort to update my blog. I won't do it all the time, I'm sure. But, I will be making a more concerted effort to post updates.

So, enjoy the holiday season and all of the occasions to celebrate beauty in this world with those that you love!

And, remember to check back once in a while because I'll start tracking down, cool unusual designers again and commenting on crap that everyone hates (UGH, JEGGINGS!!! AND JEGGINGS FOR MEN!!!! BAHHHHHHHHH!!!!).

Much love--SHOULDERACHE

Net-A-Porter Sold!

2010-04-03T11:58:00.000-07:00

High end fashion is huge business. Fashion in general is one of the biggest economic drivers on the planet. No matter how silly people make it out to be, the business of deciding what to wear is part of what makes the world go round. It accounts for about 5% of all household spending in the US, which, in aggregate terms adds up "lots of money". Just like every other industry on the planet, the fashion industry is subject to take overs, mergers and deals. The most recent huge one was Richemont SA bought a controlling stake in Net-A-Porter!

Why is this a big deal? Net-A-Porter is easily the most major player in the high-end fashion internet market, and it was independent from any of the conglomerates so it was able to carry designers from all of the different conglomerates. Most of the fashion retail websites aren't able to carry the kind of range of products or can only carry them after their season has passed. NAP has been able to get a huge range of products in their current season and get designer exclusives--they've done a magnificent job carving a niche for themselves. People make a big deal about their online magazine that they put out every week, but honestly as a regular consumer of theirs, I don't care two straws about their magazine. All I care about is whether they were able to get in stock any of the particular hard to find item that I MUST HAVE. So far, they've always been able to.

Richemont, a Swiss Conglomerate that owns Cartier and other high-end brands has promised that they are leaving NAP's founder Natalie Massenet in charge and will not be integrating it with their other companies. It is hoped that this will allow for NAP to broker retail deals with competing conglomerates and continue with their success. I'm not sure that it will pan out like that. One of the things that made NAP so successful was that it was a third party to the fashion houses and now it will lose that advantageous aspect. I'm really curious if the other conglomerates will buy into the idea that Richemont isn't meddling in NAP and allow for it to continue to be a retail outlet. I think that Richemont will maintain this kind of hands-off approach for the next while but I think that over the long term they will probably seek to slowly integrate it with their other brands and use it as a huge internet portal to sell their goods--this would give them a massive advantage over the other conglomerates because none of the others have been able to either acquire such a portal or build one on their own. LVMH tried with eluxury but failed. With internet commerce becoming such an important aspect of luxury retail I think over time the concept of further brand integration will prove to be simply too irresistible to Richemont. I'm not sure if that will be a great thing or not, but it will be different. That kinda makes me sad.

Pictures of Stella McCartney items from Net-A-Porter. Thanks to a faithful reader to suggesting the topic!

Links of The Week!

2010-04-02T07:02:00.000-07:00

Hey everyone! Guess what?!

I was featured as one of the links of the week for the Independent Fashion Bloggers! Holy smokes, go figure! And, thanks to one of my readers who gave me the topic that got me in--my post about Qiviut. :-)

Thinking Fashion

Edited by Retro Chick

It never ceases to amaze me the quality and variety of links that get submitted to IFB each week and how hard it is to pick just 20. Fashion & Style Bloggers are intelligent, thoughtful and insightful people who really understand their subject. Whether it’s Second Hand Shopper questioning the distinction between fashion and style, Shrimp Salad Circus discussing how much of ourselves we should put into our blogs or a whole plethora of posts on the subject of body image.

Of course, we also love a bargain and this week we have a DIY Pillbox Hat, tips on thrift shopping the Spring trends and a gorgeous giveaway.

I really would urge you to take the time to check out the links that didn’t make it in the forums. I don’t think there’s a bad post among them….

Links à la Mode : April 1

Alyson Is Neat – Revealing secrets on how to go into a store and not purchase clothing.
Awakened Aesthetic – How to live green, without giving up the “unethical” stuff you already have.
blackdog finds – How to Thrift Shop for Spring 2010 Fashion Trends:
British Style Bloggers – A preview of the finalé of British Style Bloggers’ Body Image Season, including a random and rambling tour of BSB’s head office (aka my house).
DailyDivaDish – Spanx for Men: Is shapewear for men really going mainstream? Why I think it’s a bad idea.
Despising Life is So Passe – Pillbox Hat DIY
Eternal Masquerade – Monroe Monday: A Look At What the Wardrobe Should Mean to Every Woman
Grit and Glamour – A signature fragrance is your invisible identity—it becomes part of your brand
High Fashion Girl – I write about Lady Gaga like you’ve NEVER read about her before.
Idiosyncratic Style – A Peek at the life and style of illustrator Rachelle Scarfo
Independent Fashion Bloggers – How to make your blog mobile friendly
Oh, the Places You'll Go! – Fatsionable Art and Inspiration from Eva Hannah.
Retro Chick – How every girl can be a Princess
Second Hand Shopper – Second hand shopper pits the escapism of fashion against the expressionism of style
Shoulderache & The Closet – The most expensive wool in the world!
Shrimp Salad Circus – How much of yourself should you put ‘out there?’
The Demoiselles – Graceful Empowerment Comes in All Forms (including that of eating the other guy’s tacos).
The Greyest Ghost – Behind the scenes of the Chanel f/w 2010 ad campaign in NYC with Abbey Lee Kershaw, Freja Beha Erichsen, and Karl Lagerfeld.
The New Wave – Going once, going twice, SOLD! A visit to the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection auction.
The Well-Appointed Catwalk – Highlights and my impressions of “Health Matters: Weight and Wellness in the World of Fashion,” a panel discussion I attended featuring Anna Wintour, Michael Kors and Natalia Vodianova.
True Queen – Examining the use of fur by designers on the runways of the Fall 2010 fashion shows.
Unfunded – Unfunded teams up with the U.K. retailer NEXT for an awesome giveaway!

Dacron, Because Polyester Has A Brand Name Too

2010-03-29T19:46:00.001-07:00

There are so many bizarrely-named fabrics out there. Most sound like they are named by aliens or by scientists wishing to instill a sense of foreboding in the wearers of the materials. One of these is "dacron." Dacron is a real something. It is the DuPont registered name for a particular kind of synthetic material, a kind of polyester. I'm not sure of the exact date of the patent on the material, but it seems to have been used for clothing since sometime in the 1960's.

Dacron has a myriad of uses that the DuPont marketing team has dreamed up. It goes on plane wings, is used to repair veins and arteries and naturally, you can make dresses out of it. Usually, these dresses are vintage as most clothing manufacturers do not bother listing the particular brand name of a polyester, probably because the brand awareness among consumers is next to nothing and it would probably just create confusion. Based on my research, the dacron is usually used in knitwear and at least in vintage wear, by high-end designers. And, if I'm not mistaken, dacron is the synthetic element in the classic St. John Santana Knit.

One of the designers who has used dacron is Rudi Gernreich. I'm sure I'll blather on about her in another post sometime in the future, but today we talk about the materials she used. The dress pictured is made out of 100% knit dacron. It looks really nice, it hangs well and since it is vintage, it can clearly last a good long while. Its really interesting to think that the material used in this lovely dress is probably the same stuff used to patch your grandfather's arteries during heart surgery--imagine such a versatile material that one day it can be manufactured into a lovely designer dress and the next it is made into surgical patches. The cool part is that if you decide to wear it on your outside, you'll look fabulous!

Pictures have been graciously provided by ricysue, who has a variety of dacron dresses as well a myriad of other lovely things.

For my blog post about Azlon, a related fabric, click HERE

Qiviut: Cashmere From An Ancient Goat

2010-03-28T11:18:00.001-07:00

I don't think that most people realize it, but cashmere is from a Mongolian goat. Most people don't like goats--they smell, they scavenge, they don't always make the best pets. But, their hair is amazing. There are many different kinds of goats and several of these produce hair that is worth wearing. The most sought after is hands-down musk ox hair. The traditional name for it is "qiviut". The musk ox is basically a giant goat left over from the last Ice Age. It dwells in northern arctic regions like parts of Alaska and Canada. It is endangered due to over hunting. It is not endangered because people like to make scarves from its hair, like some websites suggest. The opposite is true--it is its hair that has proved to be its saving grace.

One of the key theories involved in saving endangered species is to figure out how to make them "economically necessary" to save. Since the musk ox makes hair that is of even higher quality than any cashmere, some researchers have taken it upon themselves to figure out how to collect the hair, produce goods from it and then market it to the public. One of those is The Musk Ox Farm where musk ox are bred and their hair is humanely collected for use by native Alaskans. The hair is either combed off of the oxen or collected off of the ground when it is shed. No musk oxen are harmed in the process. Once the hair is collected, it is distributed to people in the Oomingmak Cooperative where they spin the hair into yarn and then knit it into products. After that, the goods are collected by the Cooperative and then sold.

Qiviut has proven to be ounce for ounce the most expensive wool on the planet. That isn't due to some sort of marketing gimmick--it is because it is the highest-quality wool on the planet as far as hair diameter, warmth-retention and shrink-resistance. Due to the Endangered status of the animals, not very much of the hair is collected for commercial purposes each year, so due to the supply being so small and the demand so great, the price is rather steep. But, as the saying goes, "you get what you pay for."

As a result, one of the only places to buy Qiviut products is from The Oomingmak Cooperative Store. What makes shopping from them so cool is that their goods are made by Native Alaskan artisans, so their prints are traditional ones that can't be found anywhere else. Not only are they producing stylish, unique items but it also allows families who chose to maintain their traditional lifestyle to do so. Knitting qiviut is a traditional craft and the Cooperative helps make this traditional art economically important enough to keep it going, which in this modern age is something that is socially and culturally essential. The patterns that they use might be otherwise forever lost to the world if the Cooperative hadn't been established. One of my favorite patterns is on a scarf--it is a very old pattern that has been found on hunting spears. Its pretty and I like it.

I always hear people complain that fashion is shallow. No, it isn't. Buy a scarf and help save an endangered species and an endangered way of life.

Top picture from Jungle Noises, Bottom Picture from Oomingmak Cooperative

For my post about mohair, click HERE

Russian Construtivism, Franz Ferdinand and You

2010-03-27T12:40:00.002-07:00

I am, for whatever reason, hooked again on Franz Ferdinand's "Take Me Out". I kinda blame The Thinking Fashionista or maybe its just that I really love the song. The music video is awesome. If you haven't seen it, you must click the link and watch it on their YouTube channel. It doesn't help that I'm a huge Russian/Soviet Constructivism nerd--the music video plays into that perfectly. That art style is a direct reaction against "art for art's sake" and instead moves to serve a direct social purpose. Its mostly from the NEP era and the most quintessential piece is THE MAN WITH THE MOVIE CAMERA (movie poster pictured). If you haven't seen the MAN WITH THE MOVIE CAMERA, you really should. It was a groundbreaking piece and is still wildly influential.

So, after lots of gaping at YouTube, I decided that wearing clothes inspired by the music video was a must. One of the things I came up with is this Temperly tattoo-lace mini dress. The boobs have eyes. This dress fits perfectly with the music video--its color scheme matches exactly, parts of it look like altogether different objects and its got that dada/fantasy quality about it. Not only does it look kinda like a high-fashion Constructivist fantasy, but it is also flattering. Notice the contrasting side panels--those hit perfectly to minimize the hips. Also, the lines on the abdomen are curved in such a way to create an optical illusion that the waist is smaller. This is a pretty neat looking dress and it isn't for everyone, but it certainly has a place in the world.

Another dress that seems appropriate is the Roksanda Ilincic Sunrise lame' dress. I know, it is terribly simplistic to watch the video and get "art deco robot" out of it. But, you have to admit that this dress works like that. Its a classic shift cut and the color reminds me of old hand-painted photos from the 1920s. I like that the bandages/stripes are slightly skewed, it makes it kinda quirky and like it is some kind of prototype made out of parts found around the lab. But, it doesn't go overboard to where it looks like a costume. Its actually really fashionable and wearable. Granted, you would have to wait for a particular occasion to wear it, but its a really fabulous dress.

I have no idea why, but stuff inspired by Soviet Constructivist artwork is absolutely intriguing. Its such a different, stylized concept of what beauty and life are. And, Franz Ferdinand is just plain cool.

Movie poster is public domain and two dresses are from Net-A-Porter

You may also be interested in my posts about more Construtivist/Art Deco inspired fashions and The History of Fortuny

Ebay Round-up!

2010-03-25T19:22:00.000-07:00

I know, some people can't stand ebay. But, I have to say that there are some great sellers and sometimes it literally is the only place in the world to find stuff. Here's what I've come across today!

One of a kind Koi Suwannagate tank top. It is hand sculpted by Koi, so it is basically a one of a kind piece made by her or her studio. I'm not sure if she is the one physically doing the making or if she's directing her staff to do it on her behalf. This is different than her ready to wear stuff that is sold in department stores--these are sold in a password protected area of her website. Its so hard to find, so it is cool to see it for sale!

Embroidered TSE skirt. I love this skirt, I think its adorable. The embroidery is fantastic and TSE always makes great stuff. Plus, its silk. Its a can't-go-wrong kind of skirt. Besides the listing price on this one is way super cheap, so it is a steal!

Vintage Pucci skirt. This thing is insane. It is a huge, full-length velvet Pucci skirt in vintage mint condition. With 2 days left and no reserve its going for about $2. Its stunning and about a size 4. It is green with flowers and I'm seriously considering bidding because these things almost never come up for auction. Its basically a museum piece and is amazing!

Prada Fairy shoes. New in box Prada heels from the Fairy collection a few seasons ago--so pretty! I absolutely loved that collection. It was a perfect counter-balance to the world becoming an even worse mess. It was so pretty up against everything so ugly. These are size 7.5 and are in new condition. They are the purple and green combo and come in that super cute box with the fairy characters. Adorable!

Please note: by posting this, I am not personally vouching for these sellers, but to the best of my knowledge the items linked on this page are authentic.

Jeggings: A Stupid Trend

2010-03-24T20:01:00.001-07:00

There are some trends that I refuse to subscribe to. Stuff like harem pants, counterfeit goods, Juicy suits. Jeggings would be now another one of them. What are "jeggings" you ask? They are exactly what they sound like. Basically, jeans as leggings.

I should state plainly, I don't like leggings. I haven't worn them since I was a little kid. There's an obvious reason--they aren't clothes and they aren't supposed to be worn when you're older than 10. No one wants to see you wearing a skin-tight synthetic casing around your lower half. Not seemly. Not good. Just don't. That's why this whole jeggings thing disagrees with me. People will now be using it as an excuse to wear something that they just shouldn't.

This is a pair of the offenders. They are Paige Denim Verdugo Jeggings. They're grey so they aren't probably the best idea even if they were real denim. Now, I like denim. Jeans are great, especially dark blue. Grey, at least to me, looks like a trend that is nearly up and in a few months from now no one will make it. I can't remember the last time I actually saw someone in person wearing grey jeans. Grey jeggings is a combination of all that is wrong with each individual component. Grey denim isn't particularly stylish, at least not any more. Jeggings show every lump and sag that you never wanted to reveal to the world at large. Now, you can have lower extremity coverings that are both unflattering and nearly done as a style! Super.

Another offender is the J Brand Mid-Blue Denim Stretch Legging. The pants that are no one's friend. If these were normal denim, I'd like the wash. Solid-blue jeans are classic and go with pretty much everything and are appropriate for basically everything. Solid blue jeggings are not a good idea. Leggings are a sure recipe for the much dreaded camel-toe. I can't imagine how much more uncomfortable (for the wearer and the viewer) it would be in jeggings.

I realize that there are detractors that are sure this trend is the coolest thing this week. I beg to differ. Jeggings are at best something that Paris Hilton wears while jogging. Notice how even Paris Hilton has the good sense to relegate them to merely athletic-wear. That should probably be a hint.

Top pair is from Shop Bop and the second pair is from Net-A-Porter

And for more commentary about jeggings gone even more wrong, see my post about Pajama Jeans. You know you wanna.

Not Everything Is Wrong, Thanks To Marni

2010-03-23T20:07:00.000-07:00

There are some days that you just want to have the right to tell someone "no, you're wrong. I see right through you. I don't like what I see. Please stop talking." But, that isn't always possible. Today was one of those days. To balance it out, I found some dresses to say "You're right" to.

This one is a light blue and silver Marni dress that is currently on sale on their website. Its just...sweet. The print is like houndstooth but with everything turned caddy-corner so it comes out looking traditional yet playful. The color combination is so classic, that silver and blue combo has been popular since at least the Renaissance. It certainly won't go out of style now. What makes the dress really adorable is that ribbon that ties at the top of the back. It completes the look perfectly and contrasts wonderfully. The whole cut of the dress is nice, it isn't easy do to a shift with a gathered neck and have it avoid looking like a parachute or umbrella. I tried finding the runway look to compare it to but there isn't one. The dress is its own look entirely. The print isn't even in the fall 2009 show, or the prefall show or the 2009 summer runway show. I love that Consuelo knew that even though it didn't make the cut for the show that women would still love it and offered it for sale. You're right, Conseulo.

Another dress is one of the looks from the Marni 2009 fall runway show. Even though it is a winter look, something about it just feels reassuringly like spring is coming and that everything is going to be warm and growing soon. The print is a classic looking vintage floral blown up larger than it ordinarily would have been used for a garment. The cut of the dress has all of the seams to be a New Look dress but with different volume proportions, so modern yet referential to one of the highest points in women's wear design. It is paired with accessories that it never would have been paired with in the golden age of Dior--a costume bib necklace, argyle tights and man-ish ski gloves. It takes the look from looking like purely a reinterpretation of a classic look into its own, modern combination for a woman who enjoys the sprit of the past but isn't afraid to embrace the future or even to take what usually only is reserved for men. You're right, Consuelo.

There, that makes me feel better. Things balance out and there are things in the universe that are entirely right.

Top picture from Marni and bottom picture from Style

Brian Reyes and The Search For The Spring Dress

2010-03-21T09:22:00.000-07:00

Meh, I'm still wandering around looking for spring/summer dresses that I like. There are millions of dresses out there and I always feel like I need to see what's out there before I really decide anything. There are so many great designers out there that don't get much press even though they make wonderful things that I'd absolutely love to wear. I have no idea why they get largely ignored, but it means I end up spending lots of time cruising around the 'net looking to see what I can find.

One of the designers that is a great new talent but gets kinda forgotten is Brian Reyes. He's an American designer that shows at New York Fashion Week. He occasionally gets featured in magazines but not with any regularity. That's pretty disappointing considering he makes some cute, wearable clothes. He's one of the few designers that isn't afraid to use print and color and I totally love it.

In his Spring Summer 2010 show he had a whole series of dresses in a shagreen print. Shagreen is the textile from stingray leather, it has a kind of pebbled/mosaic print. Its a really beautiful natural material and I've never seen that reinterpreted as a fabric print. Not only is the print of these dresses cute, but the cut is too. They're cut to be flattering and young, perfect for spring. They look like they would be great on a young woman, I like that they are sexy without being revealing.

It seems that some of the other prints in the runway show are inspired by the Rorschach test. Designers are always doing prints like that but what makes this ink blot print so cool are the colors. The colors just make me smile, they are fabulously youthful and spring. I love this dress, only I want to make it about 3 inches longer (or, since I'm shorter than the model it would hit at the spot I want) and then put a contrasting belt over it. That is exactly the kind of things I like to wear. I know I probably shouldn't say this, but that print looks great for disguising random food and coffee stains and like if it was a really hot, sweaty day you wouldn't be able to tell. Probably not what most people think when they are looking for a dress, but lets face it, its reality.

Brian Reyes is a wonderful Columbian-American designer who is making beautiful clothes for young women. I know, these dresses aren't really for everyone because not everyone wants to wear bright ink blots all over them, but they certainly fill a void in the fashion world. I'm excited to watch how his career progresses, we can't have enough designers that aren't afraid to take risks with color and print!

Pictures from Style

Zero + Maria Cornejo Tries To Break Through

2010-03-20T10:18:00.000-07:00

Maria Cornejo is a designer from Chile that always seems just on the cusp of being the next "IT" designer. She's a fantastic designer and she really has what it takes. Or at least she does in my opinion. I always like to watch her collections, hoping that she finally got over the last hump and is making dresses that will become cult items. I think the world needs more designers that aren't American, Japanese or Western European and I think that she would help fill that void. (maybe if I keep blogging about her someone will listen...)

Her Spring/Summer 2010 runway show really demonstrated why she's a fresh voice in fashion. With this black dress, it appears that she's taking her draping sensibilities to a new level. She reimagines the architectural/origami trends into something that is also soft and draped. The side pockets are a less severe version of the ones that almost every designer is putting on their dresses, the kind that are meant to square off the hip and create a kind of art deco robot shape. But, these pockets move and fall with the woman, still giving a new shape to the hips but in a way that is distinctly feminine. I'm really curious about how the top of the dress looks when the model's arms are spread out and if the draped bust fabric moves with them. While I'm generally not a fan of excessive fabric at the bust, this fabric is draped in so many directions that it doesn't seem to have saggy-boob syndrome. That's hard to do. The problem with this dress is that although it is nice, wearable and cute it isn't enough for Maria Cornejo to really step up and capture the fashion world's imagination and get to the next level.

In recent collections Maria Cornejo has also started including looks that aren't based on the draped sack dress concept. She's starting to incorporated more seams and shapes and prints. Let's face it--not everyone looks great in a sack dress. That's why I really like this black and white dress from the SS 2010 runway show. Its not a draped sack. In fact...its kinda body-con. It has seam detailing/structure, it is more shape-conscious and fitted and not a gather in sight. I'm not sure how I feel about the black sash across the bust, but it doesn't take away from the fact that Maria is trying something else than her usual and she's taking risks.

I really hope that Maria Cornejo is able to finally take her work to the next level and really become an IT indie designer. She's good, now she needs to create looks that achieve that cult status that makes women fight for her pieces. I'm really looking forward to her next few collections!

Pictures from Style.

Chanel Accessories and The White Rabbit

2010-03-19T13:15:00.000-07:00

With the release of Tim Burton's ALICE IN WONDERLAND, accessories with that theme are everywhere. But, it isn't like its the first time that such things have been available or popular. I blogged about it in 2008 when I got my hands on the 2007 SS Printemps Chanel White Rabbit pin. The thing is so overwhelmingly cute. Its just adorable. I bought it because when I was a teen I had a white rabbit as a pet and the pin reminded me of him. Lately, whenever its left the house with me I get bombarded with "I want that, I need that and where can I get it?!" I've been combing the net trying to find real ones for sale and I just haven't been able to do it. I just can't find any to send to my friends so they'll quit plotting to steal mine. But, I have had success with finding similar pieces!

One of my favorites is the White Concrete Rabbit by lulubugjewelry on Etsy. Its high-grade silver with white concrete set into it and on a silver chain. Its got the same cute vibe as the Chanel one, but instead of being a pin it is necklace. I like it. It looks like it would be fun to wear. It is related to ALICE IN WONDERLAND, it isn't so clearly from it that it can't stand on its own. I'm not a huge fan of the Disney Couture jewelry line and wearing referential pieces like this seems like a much better plan. Once the hype of the movie is done and gone, no one's going to roll their eyes at this necklace.

Another favorite is the Silver Flying Rabbit from CosmicFirely. Its so steampunk, I love it! Okay, so "steampunk" is a style movement of stuff that is industrial looking combined with Victorian design elements. So, like an alternate version of history where advanced technology is present in Victorian times. A silver rabbit on flight wings is exactly that, plus being cheeky and fun. Its not exactly ALICE IN WONDERLAND, but its got the white rabbit and the hype of the movie will die down but this pin will still be great to wear. No one is going to point at it and ask "oh, you like the movie that just came out?", but instead "that's cute! Tell me about it!" Its not easy to find unusual pieces like this, so you'd probably also be the only person in the room with it. Hey, a piece of jewelry that makes you smile is always in style.

Sure, finding the 2007 P Chanel White Rabbit pin may be pretty much impossible now, but there are similar options available. While it ties in to a popular movie, the white rabbit is such a classic symbol (MATRIX, anyone?) that it won't go out of style any time soon. And, its cute. You can't beat cute.

Top picture is my own, other pictures are from Etsy

Narciss: An Emerging Talent

2010-03-18T11:20:00.000-07:00

One of the most exciting things in fashion right now is that Eastern Europe is finally finding its feet in the fashion world. Designers from all across former Soviet republics are starting to emerge are new voices and perspectives. This is fantastic--the Eastern European sensibility towards clothing is refreshing and fairy tales seem to inspire so many of the new ideas. (have I mentioned that I'm obsessed with fairy tales?) One of the new designers that is really starting to make a mark is Narciss by Alise Trautmane.

When did you start your label? When did you start designing or know that you wanted to be a fashion designer?

With an academic background in law and economics, there was every chance I would never been close to the catwalk. However, after enjoying fast, successful career in business traveling half the world and with the enormous responsibility that the post of the Vice President embodies (at the age of 27), I left the asset management company I had been working for. During these years of my career the titles of the business card changed and the office space grew from mere cubicle to a spacious one, but the lack of satisfaction and creativity was making my life pretty dull. After the Fashion Design and Marketing course at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London in 2008, and summer spent studying the craft at Istituto Europeo di Design in Milan I took off for a creative journey by establishing NARCISS.

How did you come to show at Russian Fashion Week for the last few seasons?
While working as business consultant in Moscow for almost almost two years I have travelled all over Russia, and am acquinted with the business culture and its specifics. Russia in an enormous market with great potential. Moreover, Russia is the biggest neighbour of my home country Latvia. Last, and not of least importance, Russian women are very involved in following the fashion trends and spend a lot of time and effort in taking care about their looks.
Russian Fashion week is the biggest fashion event in Eastern Europe and ranks among top ten fashion weeks in the world according to the organizers. Moscow, as other big fashion metropolitans, has the spirit and dynamics necessary to become a true fashion capital in the future. This season, we will show Fall/ Winter 2010/2011 collection in Russian Fashion Week once again. We will also take part in Riga Fashion Week (in Latvia) with the show on 27 March. Riga is an ideal place to work and create, but all the business potential and our PR efforts are focused first of all on Russia.

What was the inspiration for your current collection?
Inspiration for SS2010 NARCISS collection GRACE:
I derived the inspiration from the 50-ies movie legend and fashion icon Grace Kelly. Grace Kelly was not only a natural beauty and elegance, but also a sharp intellect. She showed how the seemingly incompatible can be combined both on the screen as well as in the private life. The SS2010 collection stresses the aspiration towards all that is natural, e.g. in the choice of materials and accessories, as well as towards the importance of fashion being comfortable. Although the collection is created for the always moving woman leading a busy life in the metropolis, nevertheless, the collection invites to move closer to the nature and seek a true harmony. As regards the fabrics of the collection, the glamorous silk is successfully combined with the more modest fabrics like linen. Accessories and trimmings are woven ropes, stone decorated traditional Latvian footwear pastalas and the jewelry made of semi-precious stone agate.

Inspiration for AW2010/ 2011 collection „LĀČPLĒSIS”
Lāčplēsis or "Bear-slayer" in English is the legendary hero of the 19th century Latvian epic. Lāčplēsis got his name after killing a bear by ripping its jaws apart with his hands. His strength was hidden in his ears, the ears of a bear, which represented the primeval forces of nature.
According to the epic one of the principal tasks of Lāčplēsis was to fight the Black Knight. However, the outcome of the battle was inconclusive as both Lāčplēsis and his enemy fell in the river from a cliff and perished.
NARCISS turned the idea of the Latvian epic into the story of the heroine of our times who continues the fight with Black Knight, but this time it is not a physical but a spiritual fight. She embodies the strength and the wit of Lāčplēsis, but for her Lāčplēsis’ source of power – the ears of a bear – no longer embodies physical strength. Instead, it represents the ability to hear the voice of the heart and follow it. She is here to clear the minds of the people of ultra materialistic, individualistic and evil thoughts and propagate the spiritual knowledge and core human values.

Where are your pieces sold at and are you still based in Riga?
The design and production takes place in Riga, Latvia, which is a great location in terms of logistics (i.e. it is within European Union which give an easy access to other EU member states, as well as is neighbouring Russia, which is one of our main markets).
I, myself, spend one third of the time in Riga, the other third in Moscow, and the rest between London, Paris etc. With the AW2010/2011 collection we took part in the prestigious Pret-a-porter Paris trade show and currently the collection is in multi-label showroom AMAKA in London (www.amaka.co.uk ). This is our third collection, and with this collection we will try to explore the European market as well (with previous collections we only focused on Russia).
Currently we sell in multi-brand boutiques in Latvia, Russia, Belgium and now are finalising orders for AW2010/2011, for which we hope we will expand our European client base.

What do you think is a must-have for this spring?
A dress with sheer details. My favorite is the one pictured. It is in keeping with Grace Kelly's aesthetics--its feminine, beautiful and smart. Its graceful. The color and the fabric are perfect for warmer weather while the cut makes women feel beautiful. It is made of linen with silk charmeuse.

I'm always so excited to see new talent that seems like it is actually going somewhere and I think that Narciss falls into that category. The clothes are wearable by just about any woman, they are interesting in their own right and they're pretty. The dress that Alise recommends for spring is perfect. I could see myself wearing it. I really hope that the line starts to really expand across Europe so it becomes easier to find. When a line in its first year gets picked up to show at one of the major fashion weeks of the world you know that its going to be something worth following.

Pictures from Narciss, special thanks to Alise for taking the time to be interviewed.

Have A Green Day With Terra Plana

2010-03-17T11:45:00.001-07:00

I think the whole green movement thing is kind of cool. I don't think it should matter what you think of global warming, instead the concept of living with less trash should be important. Lots of trash seems like a real bother because, lets face it, trash sucks and no one wants to live in a pile of it. One of the ways to have less trash is to buy things from recycled materials. That's easy enough with recycled paper and such, but for fashion its a bit more difficult.

Okay, so it is a lot more difficult, especially if you don't want to wear some stranger's old clothes. Trying to find cool reworked clothing is nearly impossible. There's Libertine. And, well, I can't think of anyone else. But, for shoes there is Terra Plana. They make footwear from recycled materials that doesn't look like a cut out from an old tire--imagine that!!!! Their shoes actually look...fashionable. One of my favorites is the Dionysia in grey. It looks like an actual fashion item. Not only does it not scream "OMG, look at me, I'm such a hippie!" but it is made of vegetable-dyed leather, eco-friendly memory foam, and a sole made out of recycled materials. That's cool. You could actually wear these out of the house and feel super stylin' while knowing that your shoes are not making the world more full of trash. Awesome.

Another one of my favorite pairs is the Melito. I actively want this shoe. It has a covered front platform, stitching details, a stacked heel and a really cool print. Turns out the print fabric portion is made out of old quilts from Pakistan. Yes, really. Traditional Pakistani quilts. That's awesome. Its pretty, fits with current tribal-inspired trends and is so unique looking but in an awesome way. The kind of way where strangers stop you in the street and ask about your shoes because they want some too. Plus, they have memory-foam insoles, so I suspect they're comfortable. Not bad.

The only problem I see with these shoes is that for some reason they don't carry alternate-width shoes. Someday, when sustainable shoes become more popular my wish is that they carry "narrow." Until then I get to live vicariously through pictures.

Pictures from Terra Plana

You may also be interested in my post about another green designer, Deborah Lindquist

Marimekko And The Dress Of Many Colors

2010-03-16T10:31:00.001-07:00

I have no idea why, but I'm obsessed with wearing print. I own almost no solid colored clothing--I just poked my head in my closet and I literally only have 4 solid colored dresses. If something is solid colored I usually have it just because I've got some outlandish print something and needed something to wear with it. The problem with liking print so much is that good prints are hard to find. It seems like most print fabric designers make stuff out of is an absolute snooze. Stuff like polka dots and maybe some boring vintage-inspired flowers. And then there is Marimekko.

Marimekko is a textile company based in Finland. They started in 1951 as a clothing fabric maker and they started making simple dresses out of the fabric to show how it could be used. These simple dresses became an absolute sensation in the 1960s starting when Jackie Kennedy started wearing them. From then on, the vibrant prints became a clothing staple and companies the world over have attempted to emulate them. Several companies have had long-standing partnerships with Marimekko, like Crate & Barrel and FinnAir. In the 1980s and 1990s the company ran into financial trouble but was revived. What really put it back on the map was Patricia Field started using Marimekko items in SEX AND THE CITY and so for the last 10 years Marimekko has once again become a household name and the rest is history!

And, I'm hooked on their prints. While they do release dresses for Anthropologie, they also still have their own in-house fashion line that they still use to showcase their fabrics. My favorite dress that they have available right now is the Tamir dress in black and white. The print is quintessential Marimekko--its got the folk art inspired print against a solid contrasting background. Its classic, modern and cool looking. The cut of the dress is great--it gives a flattering shape, is appropriate for pretty much everyone and is stylish. I love the neck, that vintage style standing collar is fantastic. Its a print dress that anyone could wear without looking like their grandparents drapes or like a snoozefest. Love it!!

Marimekko still makes their fabrics for commercial and consumer use and in all kinds of prints. Two of my favorite ones that are available right now are the Keisarinna Collection pictured above and the Kissanminttu Collection pictured below. What I love is that they are classic looking florals reinterpreted in such a way to make them look unconventional. Perfect for this spring!

Pictures from Marimekko

Body-Con Trend: It's Everywhere, Man!

2010-03-15T09:18:00.000-07:00

Ever since I blogged about the body-con trend the other day, I keep noticing it everywhere! This trend seems to be going in full-force for the next few seasons. That's not a bad thing, as I consider it to be the exact opposite of looking like a dumpy bag lady. These looks take effort--you've gotta either find some spanx or go to the gym a bunch. You can't hide your shape with this trend, so it kinda surprises me that so many women are embracing it. I don't know why, but it always seems to me that most women are trying to hide their shape, so it is refreshing that so many women are willing to actually show their shape.

I've noticed that most of the body-con looks seem to be made of knit fabric. For instance, the Catherine Malandrino knit dress pictured is a kind of open-weave knit with a slip under. What makes this particular dress really stand out is the knit--while most of the other dresses in this trend are knit too, this one has some serious texture going! Its that extra element that really takes it from being just another cream colored body-con dress to being beyond the trend and a beautiful dress. It looks like it isn't made just to satisfy the trend, but also to be a beautiful dress that is worth wearing. One of the problems that I see with a lot of the body-con looks is that they look like they were specifically put together so that people can point at them and say "oh, that's Body-Con! You're participating in the latest trend!" instead of making women look like they're dressed in a flattering, beautiful dress.

One of the over-arching themes in the body-con trend appears to be color-blocking. For some reason, there doesn't seem to be a lot of looks made out of print fabric. I have no idea why that is, but it seems to be the case. Purposeful color-blocking is okay, I mean its good and basic and you aren't taking huge risks. But, it gets a bit boring. But, the reason that I really like this body-con Zac Posen monochrome color block dress is because while it is color-blocked, it is INTERESTING!! It has shapes, details, stitching, things to look at other than large blobs of a single color! I love it! It looks like it would be very flattering on most shapes--the two little white triangles that point down and in at the waist seem to create an optical illusion slimming effect. They give the eye something to do and make the woman look like something other than a box. This dress actually makes me excited about body-con and color blocking! Love it!

Pictures from Net-A-Porter

Thank The Heavens for Diane von Furstenberg!

2010-03-14T11:10:00.000-07:00

I'm so tired of winter that I'm just not excited about all of the 2010 AW collections that have come out lately. Thinking about them is a reminder that after 5 months of unpleasant cold it is now time to think about more unpleasant cold. Blah. Instead, its that time of year where I think most of us are looking out the window and thinking to ourselves "OMG, I MUST buy a new dress!! Its almost the time of year where I get to wear cute stuff and be comfortable and this must be celebrated!"

Yes, indeed. I just want to buy a cute, comfortable print dress that I can wear to work. It needs to be flattering and I want it to be colorful. Yet, it feels like every time I browse around to try and find something like that I fail--why is it that most designers are making solid and usually neutral colored dresses? I don't want something solid, I don't want ruffles, I don't want a mini and I don't want sequins. I want something normal. I feel like the Princess and the Pea! I was browsing around in my closet with a friend the other day and she pointed out that I must really like Diane von Furstenberg because I have tons of her dresses. I've never really thought about it before, but it is true. I LOVE DvF. Pictured are my DvF dresses that aren't at the cleaners, that's a pretty good amount of stuff to have by just one designer. The reason why I have so much of her stuff is simple. She makes nice, normal, flattering dresses that I can wear to work and that's what I really want.

After I thought about that, the dress that I want to buy now that I've got the spring shopping itch is quite straight forward. I want a print DvF wrap dress. I've settled on the DvF Herringbone Wrap Dress--its flattering, work-friendly and the print makes me smile. A close second is the Julian Leaf Print Dress for the exact same reason--its cute, flattering and I could wear it to work and feel great about it. These dresses create a top, middle and bottom like Tim Gunn always stresses, they give you a defined waist, they're not boring and they are appropriate to wear to an office. Home run!

What I can't figure out is why Diane von Furstenberg is the only designer that really seems to get my memos I constantly send out asking "could you please make me a nice print dress I can wear while I sit at my desk?" If you look at all of the high-profile designers that are always floundering, the one thing that they're always missing is a few dresses that their clients can buy and wear regularly. Not everyone goes to parties everyday but most women need a normal, cute dress to leave the house in. It isn't rocket science, folks. And, it isn't a wonder that DvF reopened her studio--this is what women really want.

Top picture is my own and the other two are from Saks

Go Exotic With GiGi Chic!

2010-03-13T09:50:00.000-07:00

There are some things accessories-wise that are just horrible to try to find. One of them for me is always great python pieces that won't break the bank. Well, GiGi Chic is here to take care of that!

GiGi Chic by Gail Carlson is an accessories company dedicated to making pieces that are high end, beautiful and normally nearly impossible to find. Gail says that her inspiration for the line came when "I just couldn't find an accessory I liked that would punch up my basic outfits. I need something that will go everywhere and always look great," so she started GiGi Chic in 2006. Why does she use exotic skins like python? "Well," she said, "leather is everywhere. I wanted something different, something that would stand out, something that was rare. Python is all of that." Currently, GiGi Chic pieces are being featured on the Miami Fashion Week runway, as well as InStyle and Elle magazine.

One of GiGi Chic's big statement pieces for the spring is the Large Gold Python Cuff. Let's face it, gold goes with almost everything. When I asked Gail why she thought that this piece was what this spring was about, she explained "its classic enough to go with almost everything while being bold enough to really make an outfit." That it is! Python is one of those things that never really goes out of style and gold is such a staple color that it is great for any season. Having had the chance to try it on, the cuff is legitimately comfortable and the gold is real so those of us with metal allergies can actually wear it--something that is really hard to find.

When I asked what was the hottest item in her line right now, Gail immediately answered that it was the City Lights clutch. "Every woman needs a statement-making evening clutch and this one fits that bill while still being appropriate for a woman of any age." The City Lights clutch is completely covered with Swarovski crystals and is the perfect size to carry your essentials for the evening without it being too large to be practical. From experience, most Swarovski crystal clutches usually come off as tacky because they're either a weird shape or are just too bling-y, but what this one brings to the table is that it has more demure colors on it so it doesn't turn into a disco ball in your hand and it is a nice, basic and identifiable shape so you won't have to spend all evening explaining what it is.

Having watched this line for a while now, GiGi Chic is really on the rise! Their pieces are consistently classic, well-made and beautiful. Plus...on the website there is 20% off all python items with the discount code "May9" and a chance to win a $1000 shopping spree.

Pictures from GiGi Chic and (as usual) nothing was given in exchange for this interview.

Thank You!!

2010-03-13T09:03:00.000-07:00

Huge thanks to Fake Plastic Fish to featuring me on their website!

Fake Plastic Fish is a website dedicated to one woman's quest to live without plastic and to focus on reducing waste. She featured my interview with Deborah Lindquist, an LA-based designer that strives to use all recycled materials. Fake Plastic Fish is a great site and make sure to visit it!

Mohair--When Goats Grow Hair

2010-03-12T10:05:00.000-07:00

Mohair is one of those textiles where the name gives you absolutely no hint about what it actually is. It isn't like there is a "mo"-creature running around that you can point at and say "hey, that thing makes mohair!" The only hint from the name is that it is some kind of hair, and hopefully not from your cousin Mo.

What it actually is happens to be hair from an angora goat. Keep in mind that this is not the same creature that makes what we call angora--angora comes from a rabbit. Why is an angora goat not called a mohair goat? Your guess is as good as mine. The history of the goat is kinda murky, probably because as history has rolled along there have been more interesting things to document than the domestication of particular goat species. But, it seems to be a variety of Asian goat that Turkic tribes have traditionally raised, based on the regions and dates several websites have cited in their histories of this particular type of goat. What makes it different from the cashmere goat is that the cashmere goat has two different layers of hair, with the underlayer being cashmere, whereas with the mohair goat only grows one layer of hair and that is mohair. Also, to get the best hair from an angora goat it is shorn whereas a cashmere goat is combed. The best mohair comes from younger goats (think cute, fluffy baby goat!). Mohair is considered a sustainable fiber because goat hair is an easily renewable resource and can be done using sustainable farming methods.

The processing of mohair is pretty much like that of any other animal hair. It needs to be washed, combed and then spun. It is great for dying and holds the color really well. Once is has been processed, the yarns can be used for just about anything. The finer, higher quality mohair is used usually for garments, like this Missoni cardigan. The lower quality mohair is used for things like carpets and industrial uses. The grading of quality has to do with the thickness of the individual hairs, with the thinner the hair the higher the quality. So, that mohair sweater that you've been rocking all winter is actually made of goat hair!

Top picture from Angora Goat and the sweater is from Bluefly, other information from wikipedia and personal experience.

Easton Pearson, The Aussies Who Know What Women Want

2010-03-11T12:59:00.001-07:00

Designers come up with their designs for all kinds of reasons. Some do it because its what their conglomerate says to do, some because the voices in the head make them and for others, it is because they know what their clients want. For Easton Pearson, it is because they know what women want.

Easton Pearson is made up of Pamela Easton and Lydia Pearson and they are based in Melborne, Australia. I believe that their runway show is usually at Sydney Fashion Week. The label has been going for over 20 years now and during that 20 years they've managed to really get to know their best customers and actually listen to what they have to say. They know that they aren't dressing just any woman on the street, they are dressing the women who want something different, personal and comfortable. Most, if not all, of their clothes are lined with silk. That is central to their philosophy that women deserve not only to wear something that they like, but that the item needs to be comfortable and respect the skin.

The inspirations for the line are primarily global cultures. Most of their clients tend to be women who are looking for something that is a bit out of the ordinary without looking like a costume. For their clothes, the meld traditional, flattering concepts with details from around the world. All of their pieces always have something special about them, be it hand-stitching, beading, pintucking, ethnic prints or something that makes it more than just a simple garment. In an age when clothing designers are cheaping out on their clients, this duo has gone to great lengths to preserve the quality and vision of their line, something that should be applauded. This isn't clothing for a wanna-be pop star, it is clothes for a woman who knows who she is and doesn't need anyone to tell her what she needs to look like. As a result, Easton Pearson designs always stand out and are sought the world over.

Unfortunately, Easton Pearson fashion items are rather hard to find. If you're looking for something, I recommend that you contact the company directly. Otherwise, you might just be stuck with what turns up on yoox and ebay.

Small pictures from yoox and larger picture from Easton Pearson

The Ice Queen Cometh, Chanel AW 2010 Runway Accessories

2010-03-10T10:55:00.001-07:00

I'll be honest here. I HATE winter! Its horrible. I hate it so much that I live somewhere that is normally hot as hell and I could normally cook dinner in my car (not an overstatement). While I absolutely hate the weather, the fashions can be so fun!

With the 2010 AW runway shows in full-swing in Paris right now, I can't help but comment on what's coming for next winter. According to Chanel, we get to be mythical ice queens. That's not a bad plan--its a timeless, powerful female figure and she's normally got an awesome get-up. One of my favorite pieces is the Chanel cuff pictured. Its got the normal Chanel maltese cross on it, but what really makes it cool are the icicle crystals emanating out of it. Its just so...statement-making. Its iconic and classic enough to where it wouldn't be wearable for just next season, I can see if being appropriate to wear for seasons and seasons to come.

Another accessory from the 2010 AW runway show was the bag pictured. Its so fun! It has the classic Chanel leather ribbon through the chain and the quilting, yet it has an extra twist with the smudgy dip-dye sort of black on it. One of the cool things is that the black isn't even--it is on the bottom, the bottom of the flap and around the hardware, so it doesn't look like it was just set down in tar or something. Also, the black is strategically enough placed so that it is on the areas of the bag most likely to get dirty during use, so it should really cut down on angst about ruining the bag. Its perfect for the woman who is attracted to the classic elegance of the Chanel line but also has a taste for the slightly mischievous. Just like the at times, morally ambiguous Ice Queen of lore.

Pictures from Style.com

For my blog post about other Chanel accessories, click HERE

Body-Con Trend: Hope You Found Your Confidence!

2010-03-09T10:24:00.000-07:00

There are some trends that just aren't for the shy. The whole Body-Con Trend is one of those. It stands for "body conscious" and translates to "wearing clothes that leave basically nothing to the imagination because they fit so snugly". This trend has been up and going for a while. In my fashion-following, the first time I remember seeing it was when Lindsay Lohan wore a rainbow Herve Leger bandage dress when she won the Maxim's Hottest Woman award. Yes, once people thought that Lindsay was hot and not in the mess sort of way.

While the clothes for this trend can be incredibly unforgiving and may make you consider buying stock in the Spanx company, there are some ways to do without looking like a sausage. One is the Herve Leger wool bustier. It has all of the bandage seaming and snugness, but since it is made out of woven instead of knit fabric and is in bustier form, it actually has some structure. Structure is your best friend if you don't look like Heidi Klum under your clothes because it does the work for you.

Another option for those of us who want our clothes to not just be trendy, but to flatter us is the Narciso Rodriguez black and white dress. It has all of the hallmarks of a body-con dress--its tight, snug and has an exposed zipper (for some reason body-con also seems to go hand in hand with exposed zippers, dunno why). But, it also has some "voodoo"--note the attached belt look going on. It is done in such a way that makes the waist look slimmer. Also, the stripes down the sides give the illusion of a smaller shape. Basically, this dress is one heck of an optical illusion that is intended to make you look like you lost 20 pounds.

With the body-con trend still going strong, there is no reason not to participate even if you don't immediately think that you have the confidence to pull off a dress that looks like an ace bandage. There are plenty of options out there that actually do flatter--why not give it a try?

Pictures from The OutNet

staci35lake, an Ebay Seller That Rocks!

2010-03-08T11:04:00.000-07:00

Ebay can be a scary place. You have no idea who is on the other side of the computer and what on earth they might be up to. But, not everyone on the website it out to scam people--there are actually some great sellers!

One of these sellers is staci35lake, a seller from Missouri, USA. She is consistently rated as one of the top sellers on ebay for customer service and quality--that is no easy feat! Not only does she have superior customer service and 100% positive feedback, but she also has some killer items. Pictured is a new with tags Prada dress with handbeading and hand-applied silk "feathers". Holy smokes! The dress is so Prada--it is a classic shape but with unconventional details that really make it stand out from just another boring cocktail dress. It also appears to have Swarovski crystals on one of the straps. For a cocktail part or occasion, this dress is a can't miss!

Not only does Staci carry high-end women's clothing, but she also carries accessories! One of the bags that she has for sale is a Marni leather and python baguette complete with tags and dustbag. The bag is *SO CUTE*!!!! It is that classic Marni teal, pink, white and red in the "pois" print that has been revived for this season. This bag is a classic and a can't miss. Plus, finding polka dot bags is nearly impossible, and yet she managed to find one to offer you.

Staci consistently has some of the coolest rare high-end items that are on ebay. She carries high-end women's wear such as Marni, Prada, Lanvin, Dries van Noten, Stella McCartney, YSL, Gucci, Koi Swannagate, Hussein Chalayan and Rochas, but she also carries high-end vintage--Celine, Gucci, Dior and the list goes on. Not only that, but she also carries a wide-range of more affordable clothes, like BCBG, FCUK and Nine West for shoppers that want great customer service and a smokin' deal on their clothes. The range of styles and selection that she has is fantastic--she carries everything from the top runway looks in Paris to some of the hardest to find designers to reliable brands that everyone knows and loves.

For all of the bad things that people say about ebay, there are some really great sellers. staci35lake is one of those!

Gardem Paris: Creepy Goth Couture

2010-03-07T13:13:00.002-07:00

The world of fashion is always full of people striving to end up at the top of the proverbial fabric heap. Gardem Paris is one line that is certainly trying its best to scale up on that crowded mountain.

The Paris-based line is not to be confused with "gardening" like google would have you believe--instead it was founded in 2002 by Garem Demerdjian. He is from Lebanon and has won numerous distinctions, such as being sponsored by Cotton. Although the line is based in Paris, the collection is shown during London Fashion Week and is sold internationally at high-end boutiques. Clearly, the line's inspiration is good ole creepy goth attacks Lady Gaga, which right now is probably the hottest thing on the market.

Garem seems to work primarily in black, white, taupes and golds, leaving his design work to do the real magic for the clothes. If nothing else, Gardem is inventive and actually makes interesting looking gowns. During the last runway show there was a dress with a giant spider crawling over the model's shoulder. I find that spider so detailed and oddly realistic that is absolutely creeps me out. Clearly, most of the dresses for that runway collection were designed to be worn by Lady Gaga. But, not everything was so entirely outlandish and unwearable--there were some legitimately cute cocktail dresses that more average people can wear and pretend that they are channeling Lady Gaga. It is really exciting to see a designer show a couture collection where some of the looks are entirely conceptual and then in that same runway show see those looks reinterpreted into dresses that someone like me could wear to a cocktail party. This is not an easy feat and really makes me think that this line will continue gathering steam and get to the point where I can walk into Barneys and actually buy it! Here's to hoping!

Pictures from Gardem Paris

You may also be interested in my post about Alena Akhmadullina and Narciss of Latvia

Camilla Skovgaard Needs to Reconsider Something.

2010-03-06T13:38:00.000-07:00

Sometimes you need to call a spade a spade. This is one of those times. I realize that these shoes have been for sale for a while, but that isn't any excuse. Camilla Skovgaard has made these moc-croc print "Leather Cut Out Heels" in orange. They make me sad.

These shoes look like someone took some fugly, forgotten cowboy boots and cut them up and stuck them on a heel and called it "something to sell". I appreciate the tread on them--that is interesting looking and remarkably useful. No slips there. The rest...the designer needs to rethink some things. I live in the part of the world where people actively consider cowboy boots "appropriate attire" and these wouldn't fly. I think they are ugly.

One reason is the height of the boot part of the shoe. They are ankle-booties. Ugh. If you're going to make the jump into western wear, at least fully commit because no self-respecting cowboy boot wearer goes half way like that. Next, it is the color. Orange?! Really?! I guess if you're going to venture into the realm of the Ridiculous Unwearable, you may as well go all of the way. Another reason is the moc-croc print in the leather. I realize that cowboy books are sometimes made of crocodile...but they're made of REAL crocodile. Not faked stamped leather. In the world of the cowboy boot lover, stamped leather is a travesty.

It is sad--Camilla Skovgaard is capable of so much better! Just look at her Zaha Open-Toe Booties--super cute, nice shoes. And these...ugh, what was she thinking? The only use I can see of them is to fug up a runway show and to be put on annoying celebs like Taylor Momsen. In the future, more Zaha, less of this. Please?!

Picture from Net-A-Porter

Maurizio Pecoraro--A Forgotten Designer

2010-03-05T16:02:00.001-07:00

For some reason, there are always some designers who just never really catch on. It isn't that there is anything wrong with them or that they aren't talented. It is just one of those things. Maurizio Pecoraro seems to be one of those.

He is an independent Italian designer that has his runway shows in Milan. He's a big enough name to always have his shows on style.com, which is more than most designers can ever say. He makes great stuff, it always strikes me as a slightly saner (for the most part) version of Marni. It always has some of the same design features, like mixed materials and interesting abstract prints and appliques. For instance, the first picture is a look in his AW 2010 show--it has layering, openwork knit, interesting yet classic skirt, giant slouchy leather bag, mary jane heels, etc... Its Marni for a normal person and it is entirely wearable. Or at least I think so.

Maurizio Pecoraro obviously has talent--his runway looks are great and he was tapped to be the first designer at Vionnet for its revival. Unfortunately, he released no designs during his 3 or so years at the fashion house (or on his own label)--for some reason this was blamed on the Iraq war. Hmmmm. I think part of the real problem is that this is one of those "almost" lines--this label is almost great, it just needs something more to push it over that final hump. One of those things would be to quit confusing "evening look" with "must always have a million sequins". Another would be to actually promote the line. I'm a shopping fanatic and I'd absolutely love the buy the dress pictured. It is from his SS 2010 collection and it is just lovely. The problem is that even I, a shopping aficionado, have no idea where to find it. In fact, I know nothing about Maurizio Pecoraro himself other than that he shows in Milan, worked at Vionnet for a while and his line finally made it somewhat into the fashion scene in 2003. My emails for more information to the corporate office weren't answered and I can't figure out who the publicist for the line is. I suspect that the lack of publicity might be the line's biggest problem of all. Its very unfortunate.

Pictures from style.com

The Best of Russian Design: Alena Akhmadullina

2010-03-04T10:30:00.000-07:00

To me, nothing quite says "Russia" like fairy tales. I honestly think that Russia would collapse without them. They're everywhere and have seeped into every aspect of life. This sense of fairytale, magic and myth is something that Alena Akhmadullina has captured wonderfully.

Alena Akhmadullina emerged on the Russian fashion scene in about 1997 when she won several local and national awards, culminating with winning the Russian "Dress of the Year" competition in 1998. After this big break, she went on to establish her own fashion house in Paris, France where she shows every year. Starting with her first show in 2005, she's been building steam and gaining the notice of the fashion world. She is easily the best Russian designer--her work is inventive, clever and wonderfully made. It speaks of fantasy without being too conceptual to wear. Unlike most Russian designers, she uses prints. Her prints have ranged from modernist Soviet movie posters to dragons and castles, all without looking like a tourist t-shirt or a renaissance costume.

The AW 2010 collection was one of Alena's best! The clothes are beautiful and the prints this season appear to be from Russian fairy tales! The whole collection seems designed for a modern fairy-princess. Someone who dresses well and knows that she's important and connected to a rich past but doesn't need to walk around in a costume all day. The prints aren't overdone--instead they are placed in interesting ways on the garment or paired with complimentary neutrals that are strong enough pieces to be interesting unto themselves. The shoes from the front remind me of horse-hooves but not so much so that they become unwearable. Its really nice to see Russian clothes that don't look like either some sort of costume or something that only the novii ruskii would wear.

Photos from Alena Akhmadullina

A Brief History of Dutch Wax Fabric

2010-03-03T13:56:00.002-07:00

There are some fabrics that are so iconic that they are instantly recognizable and have their own following. One of these is Dutch Wax Fabric. What is Dutch Wax Fabric? You've probably seen it, loved it and never knew what it was. It is that vibrant, eye-catching print that is worn in parts of Africa, namely Nigeria, Togo, Ghana and several other countries. The fabric was originally made as a knock-off of Indonesian batik fabrics by VLISCO. It never actually ended up really competing with the fabric it tried to be, instead it found its own market in Africa. Because the Dutch were not the colonizers of the Nigerian delta and surrounding area, it was more socially acceptable to trade with them, which allowed the fabric to catch on in the area. It was adopted for frequent use as a clothing textile because let's face it, its pretty.

Wax fabric is still frequently used for clothing in parts of Africa and internationally. Not only now does the VLISCO company produce it, but a wide variety of other companies do as well. It is produced in The Netherlands, Switzerland, Nigeria, Ghana, China and other textile-producing countries. One of the big issues with the fabric right now is that even though it was originally a knock-off, it is now being knocked off! Yes, really! VLISCO is such a popular brand that there are counterfeiters out there trying to pass their fabric off as genuine. Also, because the fabric is so sought after because of its prints, companies have taken to only making limited one-time runs of their prints and not publicizing what their prints will be before they are sold in order to cut down on fakes. Most of the methods involved in printing the fabric are proprietary but they somehow involve wax. Other than that, I have no idea how the prints are done.

These prints are so beautiful that they are being used by fashion designers around the world for their collections. In one recent instance, the label Zachary's Smile put out a special edition of wax-fabric dresses that were exclusively sold at Anthropologie stores. These dresses were a huge hit and since then Anthropologie almost always seems to have at least one wax fabric dress for sale whenever I walk through the store. Also, in 2008 Nieves Lavi put out a series of items in a peacock wax fabric print. As the "tribal" trend continues, I think that more and more designers are going to start using wax fabric and that it will eventually become a mainstay in American fashion culture.

fabric swatch photos from www.aknfabrics.com and picture of Anthropologie storefront from www.missomnimedia.com

You may also be interested in another blog of my entries with more history of Dutch Wax Fabrics, and entry about Junya Watanabe's use of Wax Fabrics

Geek Chic--Because Dressing Like a Librarian is Awesome!

2010-03-02T08:56:00.001-07:00

The Milan AW 2010 shows are in full swing! These are probably some of the most exciting shows because a lot of the design houses there are still independent, so the designers get to actually create their own visions instead of what corporate wants them to do.

Hands-down my favorite designer there is Marni. Sure, some of the looks get really abstract and they actually produce the pieces that you look at on the runway and think "um, are we sure about this?" But, the line always follows its own drum and I happen to like its beat. This season featured lots of art-deco inspired flouce-things at the waist of blazers. I can't see that really catching on with most women, or maybe just in a very toned down cut. Nothing wrong with a high-fashion dream.

The best looks of the season were the geeky looks. The classic sweaters with the fun necklace, nerdy glasses and unusual skirts. Lovely! The look in the photo is great--wearable, fun and practical with just that twist of interest to keep it from being the boring outfit every woman wears to work. If you look closely, you see that the skirt has small box pleats near the bottom which completely changes its shape and vibe. This outfit might not be a show-stopper but its something that Marni's fans will buy and actually wear, which in this economy is certainly a success!

picture from style.com

Interview: Deborah Lindquist

2010-03-01T10:07:00.001-07:00

Yes, I really did interview the woman herself! The "Queen of Green" is one of the nicest designers I've ever met. Deborah Lindquist is known as The Queen of Green because she's been making eco-friendly designs for over 10 years, before it was the new IT--and she knocks IT out of the park.

"Eco-friendly people are so sexy from all of the yoga and healthy eating and everything else that they do, why shouldn't they dress sexy too?" Well, with Deborah's line, they can and do. She's dressed The Pussy Cat Dolls, Sharon Stone and a whole variety of other celebrities. The best part is, you'd never know it was all eco-friendly, recycled or organic unless someone told you. She does "rockstar" in a way that any woman could wear it and look amazing--she designs her clothes to do the work for you. Deborah knows that not all of her clients are performers, so she takes care to design pieces that can be paired with basics for an edgy yet appropriate outfit for a woman of any age.

"I love dressing confident women, and on what day is a woman more confident than her wedding day"--Deborah has slowly been incorporating bridal designs into her line. It started because some of her clients kept asking for wedding gowns, and being client-centric that she is, Deborah obliged. "I've found that eco-conscious women take that same aesthetic to their weddings--they don't want to harm the world on their happy day, and what better thing than a "green" wedding dress!" Also, the wedding dresses usually aren't so over-the-top bridezilla that they can't be worn again, so not only are they made out of recycled materials, but they can actually be enjoyed again and again.

Deborah grew up in the farm country of the northern midwest and loved making costumes with vintage materials as a child. She went on to attend Parsons in New York and shortly after moved to LA and launched her company. As her career progressed, she always found herself drawn back to her inspirations as a child--vintage and antique wallpapers and fabrics. Now, she reimagines those same prints from her childhood into appliques and screen prints for her designs. The materials that she uses include old leather jackets, men's tweed blazers, recycled cashmere and vintage findings. Everything is made in her LA studio with the greatest of care. She also does custom work upon request.

Deborah Lindquist is sold at boutiques around the LA area such as Blue Planet, Fred Segal and Fleurt. It is available online at www.deborahlindquist.com and www.devidoll.com The pictures are from devidoll.com

Cute City!! Kate Spade Dresses!

2010-02-28T09:53:00.001-07:00

Kate Spade was bought by Liz Claiborne Inc. and it seemed like it was going to be the death of the Kate Spade brand as we knew it. Well, Tim Gunn then took over LC and I have to say, I don't think that there is anything to worry about.

One of the new happenings at Kate Spade is that they finally started making womens ready to wear. I've moaned for years that they should, maybe they finally heard my private whining. The clothes that they came up with are cute, fun, quirky and specifically made to look fantastic with the bags. They aren't all matchy-matchy with the bags, instead they compliment them nicely.

I had the good fortune of being in the front row for their first Kate Spade RTW show, but unfortunately I didn't take any pictures. Now the line is in its second season and it seems to be going strong. The clothes still capture the Kate Spade quirky sensibility but are entirely wearable and cute. You don't have to wear them with Kate Spade bags, they'd go with almost any handbag and accessory. Its just nice to see someone making clothes that don't look like costumes, instead all of the pieces look like fun!

Pictures from katespade.com

Time Lag...

2010-02-27T14:01:00.000-07:00

I know, I know, I know. I forget to update this thing! And, it gets a surprising amount of hits! Who knew?!

Since I last updated, fashion has of course changed. Some of the changes were awesome--Kate Spade started putting out a rtw collection. I was in the front row at their first show and it was wonderful. There was one terrible change in the fashion world...Lee Alexander McQueen tragically took his own life.

Attached is a picture of one of my favorite Alexander McQueen pieces that I've owned. The cut was ingenious...there were no side seams yet the fit was amazing. Its heartbreaking to think that the man who dreamed up the skirt won't be around to keep on dreaming up more wonderful artwork.

Suicide is never the answer.

It Doesn't Stick

2009-07-19T09:24:00.001-07:00

Every season is seems like there is a new IT designer. It kinda seems like this season's is Alexander Wang. Honestly, I don't get it.

His Resort 2010 collection makes no sense. Most of it doesn't even look good on the model, like these weird overalls. Lets face it, these overalls have a bad case of the FUG. Please don't wear them. But, what makes the collection even weirder is that right in the middle of it there are suddenly a whole bunch of not bad cocktail and evening looks that really have absolutely nothing to do with the rest of the collection. Even though in the pictures the same girl is wearing everything, it seems that the evening wear is for someone else entirely. It was just odd. And uncohesive. It just doesn't all stick together to form a cohesive, well thought out collection. It really is too bad!

Picture from style.com

Time to Vote!

2009-07-18T11:34:00.000-07:00

Okay everyone, TIME TO VOTE! Please go to HERE and vote 5 stars on all of the garments!

I know, why should you bother? Well, the voting is for a competition where the winning designer will be featured at the Las Vegas Fashion Week from September 3-5th. The designer you are voting for is Devani Weaver from Phoenix, Arizona. She's exceptionally talented and was the Scottsdale Fashion Week 2008 Designer of the Year. Most of her work is one-of-a-kind and beautifully detailed. Not only that, but she's incredibly nice and very humble. She's on those up and coming designers that has real talent and with our help and votes can really make a name for herself. In light of that, don't forget to vote!

Picture from ustrendy.com

Its Official!

2009-07-15T14:05:00.000-07:00

Its official! I will be speaking at Phoenix Fashion Week!

Phoenix Fashion Week is October 1-3 2009 and will be at the Valley Ho resort in Phoenix. Their website is rather uninformative right now so when the events get nearer I'll post a link where tickets can be had.

Okay, so I know my blog is about fashion in general, that is not what I will be speaking about. I have been booked to speak about the Business of Fashion, particularly about some of the financial things that no one likes to think about like 401(k) stuff, disability insurance, etc... that no designer or boutique owner can be without but none of them like to think about.

Picture is of Emily Brandle's show at Phoenix Fashion Week in 2008. Picture is from http://bloggingprojectrunway.blogspot.com

Master of Fabric--the History of Fortuny

2009-07-14T16:25:00.001-07:00

There are some things in fashion that are simply mythical. One of the most notable of these is Fortuny Fabrics. Every time I see them I immediately think of Lousie Brooks and Greta Garbo and their glamorous dresses! The production of the fabrics began just after 1900 and their current factory opened in the early 1920s. Ever since, their secret formula has been used to create some of the most fine fabrics in the world.

Mariano Fortuny was a Spanish designer who studied achlemy, art, science, music, architecture and history all over the world with a particular emphasis on Greek and Egyptian history. Oddly, he also had an obsession with Wagner's music. When he started his foray into fashion in 1907 he decided to open his own fabric production so that he could have access to the high-quality fabrics he envisioned his designs to be made of. It even seems that neither World War managed to completely shut down his factory, either.

The processes that were and still are used to create these fabrics is still a trade secret and the Fortuny company still claims that no one has been able to exactly replicate their fabrics. The factory is still using the same machinery and processes that were implemented by Mr. Fortuny himself. Some of the processes that are known to be used are dying the fabric from the back and the use of dye chemicals from achlemy. Regardless of what secret thing they do to make their fabric as wonderful as it is, what really makes Fortuny fabric really so wonderful is that it truly stands the test of time. I'm inclined to say that no other designer seems to have as many surviving gowns from the first few decades of the 20th century as Fortuny and I think that is the true testament to the quality of his work.

Picture of Fortuny gown from http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/hispanicdesigners

Foot Fetish

2009-07-13T12:50:00.000-07:00

One of the odd things about Prada is that for some reason over the past maybe 3-5 years their Resort collections are always their best of the year. I have no idea why that is. Maybe because Resort is really about dressing women for when they are out having fun and being themselves and that is what inspires Miuccia the most. Frankly, I don't know.

Prada's Resort 2010 collection gives me lots to say. It all boils down to the cold hard fact of I WANT IT. They did themselves proud.

The shoes for the collection are spectacular. The ones with leather flowers are cute, feminine and wearable. They are fun and would look equally well with a black dress as with a print skirt and comfortable top. While they are close to the shoe collection that they put out under their MiuMiu label a few seasons ago, there has been enough tweeking with the shoes to where one could own both those previously made ones and these without feeling like it was simply deja-vous. And, the nice thing is that they are aren't terribly trendy so they could easily be worn several years from now without it being an issue. Now, that is something to be excited about!

Picture from style.com

Something to Paddle In--Tyr Swimsuits!

2009-07-10T20:00:00.002-07:00

Yes, I know, many designers make all sorts of swimwear. Some are quite cute, even. But, when it comes to swimwear all I can say is DON'T SKIMP ON THE GOOD STUFF.

Nothing is worse than swimming in the ocean and a big wave hits you and well, you just gave all of the awkward teenage boys in the vicinity a free show. Ugh. From experience no designer seems to protect from such horrifying experiences.

That would be why you buy Tyr swimwear. The stuff doesn't budge. It sucks you in so you suddenly have a magnificent shape. It comes in reasonably fashionable patterns--the one pictured is cool looking and also creates a nice optical illusion that you are much thinner than you actually are. And, it lasts all summer unless you swim as much as a high school water polo player. I know, it isn't the most "cool" thing ever to buy, but you will seriously thank yourself when you go to the beach. Seriously.

Picture from zappos.com

That Special Time Of Year

2009-07-09T13:04:00.001-07:00

It is that most wonderful time of year--SALE TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The summer sale season is in full swing now and due to the economic crisis a number of designers have really slashed their prices. Right now on marni.com they have lowered prices by more than 50%. The discounts are to the point where some dresses are only about $300. Yes, that is right, $300 for a real Marni dress straight from the company. The items that are still available there are actually some pretty good ones and not just the fugly ones that no one else wants. Time to make the most of this most special time of year and stock up!

Picture from marni.com

DIY Done Right--Libertine Rocks!

2009-07-08T13:26:00.001-07:00

Okay, so for some reason it became popular to repurpose old clothes and make your own things in a sort of campy, tacky way. I don't know if it is the whole green movement or what that makes people do this or if it something Kool-Aid started putting in their little packets of drink mix. In general it isn't good.

But, the whole DIY I'm a hipster rockstar can be done and done well. Probably the most well-known and celebrated for it is Libertine. Libertine is made up of Johnson Hartig and Cindy Greene--one of them refurbishes used garments and the other screen prints and otherwise embellishes on them. What makes them so good is that they actually do a good job of juxtaposing high-brow looks with Victorian and punk images to create something that is unusual but totally wearable. And, most importantly, it looks like someone professional made it and you didn't just splatter paint it in your back yard.

Libertine is oddly hard to find. Barney's and Bergdorf-Goodman carry it and I'm sure that a variety of smaller boutiques do as well. Just be sure that when you buy it that the tag doesn't also say "For Target" if you are looking for one of their hand-done pieces.

Picture from coutorture.com, of their Fall 2009 collection

Vacation Time!

2009-07-05T08:35:00.000-07:00

A good part of the time Resort collections feel like they are simply composed of the stuff that was made for other collections that wasn't good enough to be shown but not so terrible as to be completely discarded. Which is probably Resort is probably the most forgotten and least cared about of all of the "seasons".

Marni's Resort 2010 collection feels like anything but things that should have stayed on the cutting room floor. It is classic Marni--interesting pieces that you'll never have a fat day in. Sure, there were no soul-stirring prints, but the cuts and colors were such that they really aren't "resort" pieces, but a whole collection of classic basics that could be worn year after year. That is nothing less than a successful collection.

Picture from style.com

Kinda a Snooze...

2009-07-03T19:39:00.000-07:00

Okay, so I know the CFDA awards are like the Oscars of fashion. I get it. They mean a lot and only really go to the best and the brightest. Yep. But, I can't help but be disappointed with this year's women's wear winners, Rodarte.

Yes, they make good stuff. They are a designer label. Okay. But, they just really aren't that exciting. Their stuff of overwrought and kinda unwearable. Sometimes I think they've spent too much time living in their parents' basement. It isn't that they are bad, far from it. I think maybe what it is is that they need a few more years to really find their groove and make garments that make women jump up and down and scream. Because, right now their garments make me keep on scrolling right on by.

I do genuinely hope that they do really live up to the award and make fantastic things. I guess I was just hoping that the award would go to someone who designs things that keep me up at night. But, when I think about it, I can't really say that any American designer is doing that now...

Picture from rockthetrend.com

New Talent!

2009-07-02T09:38:00.000-07:00

I know, I haven't been the best at updating this lately...

But, it is the season where new fashion talents are starting to emerge and put together collections to show the community! One such person is Briana Linea who is going to be showing October 1st at Phoenix Fashion Week. Her collection is going to be focusing on The Little Black Dress! Briana is currently finishing up in fashion school and working on launching her fashion company called Briana Linea Fashions. Her company is going to specialize in women's wear, both custom and ready to wear. Can't wait to see what she comes up with!

Her blog is: http://brianalinea.blogspot.com/

May Flowers

2009-05-01T08:27:00.001-07:00

It is now unarguably spring! And, one of the best parts of spring are all of the beautiful flowers blooming. As the saying goes, April showers bring May flowers!

Floral prints are always in style. It is classic, beautiful and easily adaptable to any trend that happens to be going on at any time. The florals that seem to be hot this season are usually abstract/hand-drawn and on a light background. The big breakout hit in this sort of print was the Prada 2008 Resort collection and the trend is still going strong this spring.

One of the coolest interpretations of this is by Marni! One of the things that Marni does best is floral prints. This spring will probably be remembered as one of their best in the last few years. The prints look like hand-drawn doodles of sorts yet are totally wearable and chic! And, they look classic enough to where if you invest in a piece, you'll be able to wear it seasons from now. Pretty!!

Picture from marni.com

First Fashion

2009-04-29T12:36:00.000-07:00

Politics can be extremely controversial but one thing isn't--Michelle Obama is one of America's top style icons. You don't need to agree with her to admire the way that she dresses.

Michelle is in the public eye daily and does an excellent job of dressing herself in a manner that shows off her figure while being modest and appropriate. And stylish. She's a mother and a wife and a professional and she does it with style. What really makes her style so great is that she shops at normal stores and incorporates trends into her outfits without looking crazy or inappropriate.

One of the great things that Michelle is doing for fashion is supporting lesser-known American designers instead of the standard St. John or Oscar de la Renta of First Ladies past. She is helping new voices and ideas be heard, exactly what fashion is all about. Her first 100 days as First Lady are done and without a single major fashion faux pas or dowdy episode. Her popularity is rising and she has many days ahead to show off even more exciting fashion moments!

Picture of Michelle Obama with designer Maria Pinto.

April Showers--Peter Som Makes It Rain

2009-04-21T21:45:00.001-07:00

One of the best parts of the spring is that the weather brings out the best in nature. The rain brings out the sprouting plants and flowers, exactly what spring is all about!

And, spring fashion is no different. It is all about bringing out the color after a long winter of drab, dark wools. Peter Som's spring line is all about the progression through spring--first it starts with drab beiges, then the blues become brighter and then the rainbow of colors come out!

The dress pictured is from the middle of his spring runway show, blue like the spring rain. And, at the bottom of the dress the colors are starting to peek out and around the collar the flowers are starting to bloom, just like spring outside!

Picture from style.com

Chic Knit

2009-04-18T12:22:00.000-07:00

There are some things that are always classic. Missoni is one of them. Since the 60's they have constantly churned out garment after garment that is nothing but stylish, wearable but easily identifiable as their own style.

Okay, so the styling of the model is awful. She looks like she forgot her pants. But, her top/"dress" is DELIGHTFUL. So pretty, reminds me of a van Gogh painting, shredded and reimagined. The cut is cute, the print is youthful and wearable and it is just what everyone needs right now. Probably the perfect thing to wear for the spring! Hopefully with pants, of course.

Picture from style.com, Resort 09

The New Source

2009-04-17T14:51:00.001-07:00

The day has finally come! www.theoutnet.com is finally live!!

The theoutnet.com is the clearance/outlet site for net-a-porter.com! Yes, they finally spun off a site for people who aren't going to buy a full-priced $3k gown. Instead, they have all of the stuff that didn't sell on their main site marked down and accessible year-round. And, they will also be doing a variety of new sales gimicks, like a sort of dutch auction on certain items and give-aways. Also, they will be selling things that did not appear on their main website, but it is unclear what these will be. This can only be good for the consumer--cheaper prices, new items and second chances from a reputable establishment!

Picture from theoutnet.com

Secondhand Happiness!

2009-04-11T18:43:00.001-07:00

Sometimes you just need something to cheer you up! Well, nothing works better than a gorgeous Chanel tweed bag at a great price.

The bag pictured is DELISH!! The pink, black, white and mint green are beyond classic yet don't scream preppy. And, it is secondhand, so the price is to die for! It is being sold by the premier secondhand bag dealer "fashionphile". The company ONLY sells real items so there is absolutely nothing to worry about. Not only are their items the best, but their customer service is top notch.

There's a way to cheer up a day--get a bag at a great price from a great seller!

Picture from fashionphile.com

Time To Bail Out?

2009-04-08T10:19:00.000-07:00

While banks and other companies around the world are being bailed out by various governments, is the fashion industry getting one too?

The answer is .....YES!! Italian fashion houses are hurting and since they are such a large part of the Italian economy and industry, the government has decided to grant them assistance. Not every country is doing this, as in most places the fashion industry is merely considered a frivolity and unimportant. Could you imagine explaining to the average midwestern taxpayer that Carolina Herrera needs a bailout? But, in Italy fashion is such a part of history and employs so many people that if it were to go under it would be a national crisis.

And, hopefully this means that the Italian government does not get a say in what walks down the runway--just imagine if government ministers were allowed to design Ferre' dresses!

Scary Times!

2009-04-01T20:14:00.000-07:00

Oh boy. Sometimes life is scary and you need a new hair cut. This is one 'do that is unfashionable and I do not recommend. Unless, you want to have strangers draw on your picture and mock you globally.

Picture of Kelly Pickler from perezhilton.com

The New Shoulders & Balmain Resurrected

2009-03-11T16:24:00.001-07:00

Lately, fashion is starting to re-imagine the 1980's. So far it hasn't been a wonderful thing. The 1980's were not kind to fashion. It was a fugly explosion of neon, rhinestones and shoulder pads. Ick. And, not the least flattering.

Balmain has just released a blouse with re-imagined 1980's shoulder pads. For some reason, in the 1980's shoulder pads were somehow conflated with "power". Heaven help as to why that could ever be. But, in the reimagining of these power shoulders, Balmain has turned the power from corporate power to super hero power!

The shoulders on this blouse look like they would be more appropriate on a female superhero! It is surprisingly fun! Sure, this blouse is not practical in the least. It is very high fashion. But, somewhere there are women who have somewhere to wear this. And, it is fun to see designers take old trends and revise them into something that kinda pokes fun at itself and is pop culturally relevant. After all, with all of the super hero movies around why not dress like one?!

Picture from net-a-porter.com

A New Way to Stand

2009-03-09T16:13:00.000-07:00

There are only so many ways to create and decorate a moderately wearable shoe. But, some of the best designers are finding cool new ways to decorate them!

The FW09 Dries van Noten show was pretty blah. It looked like poorly reworked several seasons old Marni. Not awful, but nothing that will make me lay awake at night dreaming of it. Far and away, the best part of the show was the shoes.

What really made the shoes cool was the creative decoration of the bottom arches of the shoes. In the one pictured, it is done in matching python! Generally, that is the most neglected part of the shoe, normally just plain leather except in a very few other designer's work. It is cool to see Dries thinking of new ways to rethink fashion items! Now, if only the rest of the collection was as exciting...

Picture from style.com

All Wrapped Up

2009-03-08T12:04:00.001-07:00

There was some talk a season or two ago that the Wrap Dress is out. DvF, the fairy godmother of the Wrap even basically stopped making them. Some blogs were calling them "frumpy" and that they made women look like sad middle-aged housewives.

Happy to see that the WRAP IS BACK!! DvF even put out a whole slew of them this season! They come in almost every style and print imaginable! What makes the wrap so flattering on most women is that it gives a very defined waist, creating a top, middle and bottom of the figure.

The dresses pictured is a personal favorite. They style name is "Jenny" in "vintage patch" print. The print seems to be a collage of previous DvF prints! The dress is cut beautifully and the print is unquestionably DvF. So perfect for spring!

Picture from saks.com

Blazing Ahead

2009-03-07T16:31:00.001-07:00

The blazer is one of those garments that has the ability to hide all flaws and do wonders or to make the wearer look like a sad, frumpy box. It all depends on the designer's skill at designing something that will compliment the human shape.

Haider Ackermann is one of the top indie European designers! And, with good reason. As the blazer pictured shows, he can transform grey fabric into a blazer that is interesting, wearable, flattering and edgy. The front stance is so unusual yet flattering! It is nice to see that great design is still being made! This would look perfect with a suit or with jeans--so versatile. Huzzah for Haider!

Picture from yoox.com

Falling for Draped

2009-03-06T16:52:00.001-07:00

There are some designers that just do some things beautifully. One of those is Zero + Maria Cornejo. As I've previously blogged about, Maria Cornejo is a master at draping. She manages to turn fabric into a beautiful masterpiece.

Her FW09 collection did not disappoint--she still has her touch! There were plenty of draped dresses, blouses and skirts to keep every draping-junkie happy. Not only that, but she also ventured into using some print! It is so great to see such a master designer take risks and carry their talents to a new level!

The dress pictured is this season's version of a dress that she does every season--a draped sack dress. But, the dress is not just any sack, it is something more. What that something more is stylish and flattering--even though it is a sack it doesn't look unfortunate, instead it looks fashion forward. And, it looks wearable by a woman of any age. It is just spectacular!

Picture from style.com

Rose Wonder

2009-03-05T19:34:00.001-07:00

Tomas Maier is a spectacular designer! He is one of the few designers that can pull off a wonderful collection without prints and only with a handful of colors.

Not only does Tomas design under his down name, but he is also the lead designer for Bottega Veneta. This most recent collection for FW09 is so...relaxing! The color scheme is black, beige and a lovely dusty rose. The rose color is the perfect shade--it flatters most skin tones and doesn't look like it is from some bad shabby chic display.

The FW09 collection not only centered around some classic colors, but also some wonderful shapes! The whole thing looked like what Grace Kelly in her prime would wear if she were alive today. Oh, just delicious and flattering! Here's to hoping that more designers follow suit!

Picture from style.com

Something To Clutch On To

2009-03-03T08:23:00.000-07:00

The Milan fall shows are going on right now--horray!! Of course, because they are fall/winter they can be pretty drab. Mostly colors of black, grey and brown and heavy. Nothing wrong with that, but I'm a spring person!

The Fendi fall show had the standard fall colors--grey and black. But, it also had the most magnificent splashes of color! Lime, teal and pink! Hopefully that means this fall is going to be littered with happy colors--we have enough drab things going on in the world without having to only wear black.

The splashes of color in the Fendi show were in the accessories, and primarily in the bags. The bags were like little square birds of a paradise in their colors! The pink one pictured is heavenly! It is whimsical and the perfect size for a clutch. And, the color is one of those classic colors that is predictably always wearable. Hopefully it goes into production!

Picture from style.com

Cute City!!

2009-02-25T15:42:00.000-07:00

Most models lately simply aren't glamourous or pretty. They look like aliens. I don't know why fashion is after that right now, but it is. Fortunately, not all models look like anorexic space visitors.

Agyness Deyn is one of the most amazing models walking right now, and surprise! She's ADORABLE!! Agyness is from the UK and in her early 20s. She is also in a band and occasionally sings. And, most of all, she is a spectacular model!

She has done Burberry and a number of other campaigns and has walked the runway for some of the world's biggest designers. In the picture to the left, she is in the FW09 Anna Sui show. She has also been profiled in US VOGUE a number of times as one of the world's top models. Here's to hoping that her career continues for many more years in the future!

Picture from style.com

Ugh Fug

2009-02-23T15:12:00.001-07:00

Ugh, sometimes celebrities make awful decisions. Somehow, even though they have legions of underlings that handle such things, they just can't seem to get it right. Considering that the Oscars is like the grandest fashion event of the Hollywood calender, you'd think that they would pay extra special attention to making sure that they look the absolute best possible

Poor Reese. Normally, she looks like a goddess. And, normally Rodarte makes the most divine gowns imaginable. But, somehow this ensemble looks like it has gone terribly wrong. Like it is the bad version of Kate Winslet's beautiful gown.

What makes it so wrong is its bizarre busyness. It has ombre chiffon panels all over the place, like huge godets stuck in randomly all over the gown. Then, it has strange straps that don't seem to match the rest of the gown. To add insult to injury, it then has random patches of embellishment all over the bust. Lordy McHeavens. It is a lot of look and not even in an interesting way.

Lets hope that next year Reese comes up with a gown to match her beautiful self!

Picture from entertainmentweekly.com

A Sad Show

2009-02-21T11:49:00.000-07:00

Lets be honest, New York Fashion Week this season was a disappointment. Sure, Fall/Winter wear is always a drag, but this year it was even more so.

The really depressing part wasn't even the clothes. It was the shows themselves. While many designers DID put on shows, a good many simply threw parties and had their models walk around to showcase the clothes. *SAD* Sure, the economy is in the tank, but that means that the world needs a fantasy, a show, something to make them forget what is going on. Instead, the designers decided to hide in their studios and only invite their friends.

For instance, Vera Wang Lavender Label didn't bother with a show this year. The clothes were great, wearable and flattering. But, instead of the world getting to see them stomp down the runway, victorious over economic dread, they hid away at an exclusive party. The dress pictured is very nice--flattering, flirty and young. But, I'll always wonder what it would have looked like on the runway, crowd staring, model stomping, music pulsing. There is something magical about that runway moment, and a tragedy that this year was without it.

Picture from style.com

Art Deco Lovelies!

2009-02-17T17:50:00.000-07:00

There are some designers that are predictable. Not that it is a bad thing. Many designers bank on the predictability of their style, provided that the style is classic. One of these designers is Temperley London.

Temperley London is known for their art-deco inspired knit designs. Sure, they make all sorts of other pieces in all sorts of fabric and prints. Those pieces are great. But, they aren't what Temperley is known for. Every season, it isn't a Temperley collection without a few pieces of knit with some sort of art-deco twist. Love it!

This season's art-deco inspired knit piece is pictured. It is kinda different than previous ones, but that is what makes it special. It is classic, feminine and wearable. And so Temperley!

Picture from style.com, FW09

Hand-Sculpted by Magic!

2009-02-15T10:49:00.001-07:00

There are some designers that are just...different. And, in a good way. One of those is Koi Suwannagate. She is arguably the top designer in Thailand. She specializes in origami-folded knit-wear that frequently is of vintage and reworked fabric. What really makes her work special is that she also makes one-of-a-kind pieces that you don't have to be a celebrity to own!

Koi not only makes one-of-a-kind pieces, but she also puts out ready to wear collections and frequently collaborates with other, particularly Asian designers.

How one can tell her one-of-a-kind pieces from her ready to wear is that the one-of-a-kind pieces have the tag "Hand Sculpted by Koi". Also, she plans on launching a menswear line soon!

What really makes her special is that her pieces are unusual, fun and wearable! The grey sweater pictured is so fun and unusual....but something that someone could actually wear!

Picture from style.com

The Day of Love

2009-02-14T15:00:00.001-07:00

Alas, the international day of love has arrived. Many relationships over the years fizzle and die. But, there are some that continue to live and bloom, with many happy years ahead.

For me, that is my relationship with Marni. Sure, men come and go but the constant is the shrine to my love of Marni living in my closet. The fun prints, the bright colors, the fun cuts! Oh, there are some loves that are worth having!

This spring, Marni definitely worth loving. The sleeveless vest is the pink coat from fw2008 reinterpreted, the belt is a new version of a perennial Marni classic. The necklace is the new version of the Marni statement-necklace. The t-shirt is fun Marni t-shirt that anyone could wear. And, of course, the skirt is a revisioning of a Marni print from a few seasons ago. Needless to say, the shoes, bag and glasses are fun, wearable and instantly feminine. Ah, love in textile form!

Picture from style.com

Feeling Lucky?

2009-02-13T13:09:00.000-07:00

There are some days like today where you just need a bit of extra luck! One popular way to ward off bad luck and other associated maladies is to wear lucky charms as jewelry. Finding fashion-forward jewelry that doesn't break the bank isn't exactly the easiest thing to do.

Dogeared is a jewelry company that makes cute, fun jewelry that any person could wear! The necklace pictured is about $65 and gold--so not only is it lucky, but it won't break the bank. It is beautiful, understated and would go with almost anything. And, perfect to wear on Friday the 13th!

Picture from www.ylang23.com

Black Is Still Classic

2009-02-11T16:26:00.001-07:00

Every season someone always say "red/pink/hippos/whatever is the new black!" Well, is it?

Not so much! Black is one of those colors that really is classic and is the ultimate neutral. It really does look good on most people and really does go with basically anything.

One of the things that every woman must have is a pair of beautiful black heels. The pair pictured by Jil Sander is the ultimate luxe version. They are black python peeptoes! Sexy yet demure and appropriate for almost any occasion. The shape of the heels are as classic as it gets and python is always in style. They are one of those pairs of shoes that any woman will wear until the local cobbler can repair them no more!

Picture from monamoore.com, currently on sale.

Africa, Revisited

2009-02-10T13:33:00.002-07:00

There are some perennial themes in fashion that are virtually always incorporated in a season in one fashion or an other. One of these themes is Africa and African art/fashion. Some years it is animal prints, sometimes it is tropical prints, and sometimes it is reinterpretations of traditional dress.

This season, Spring/Summer 2009, not only are some animal prints being used, but some designers are using wax fabric/wax fabric inspired prints. Dutch Wax Fabric is a specific type of fabric in West Africa, such as the Cote de Ivoire and Nigeria. It features bright colors, bold prints with

almost any theme but primarily geometric or nature-inspired. There are several different styles of prints and garments made from the fabric are worn by both men and women, but primarily women. Much of the fabric is by Vlisco and is considered a fashion essential.

A current example of the use of these prints is in the SS09 Junya Watanabe show. He showed beautifully complex dresses in bold wax-fabric style prints! They look so summery and fresh, and not necessarily because of the cut, but because of the print. Bold prints are always in style and the kind of attention given to that in Africa is something to aspire to and admire. My favorite print that Junya Watanabe used was the evil eye print--blue, yellow and red in a new interpretation of a traditional good luck symbol. It will be exciting to see where else these prints show up in fashion this season!

Picture from style.com

Contrasting Beautifully

2009-02-09T16:47:00.000-07:00

There are some color combinations that just work. One of those combinations is green and beige. Yes, beige is the most boring of colors, but it works wonderfully as a background to contrast more interesting colors and prints.

A blouse that captures this beautifully is the "Sophia" blouse by Karen Zambos. It has just the right shades of green and beige in the perfect proportions. On the front, the bulk of the shirt is green and on the back, the bottom strip is green and the bulk of the shirt is beige. This combination is interesting, unusual and beautiful!

This shirt would be great to wear with jeans, as pictured. But, it is basic enough to look great with a printed skirt or with a suit. It is pretty and interesting while being completely wearable and fun!

Picture from saks.com, currently on sale

The Flowers That Don't Fade

2009-02-08T08:29:00.000-07:00

There are some things that are so classic and timeless that they are outside of trends. Lanvin pearl necklaces have become one of these things.

Lanvin pearl necklaces aren't real pearls. They are in fact purely costume jewelry. But, that doesn't make them any less beautiful or classic. What makes them so timeless is that they have that fabulous je ne sais quoi, that perfect touch that only Lanvin creates.

The necklace pictured is from this current season and will be wearable for years and years to come. The juxtaposition of the pearls against the delicate chain and sequin shiny flowers is unexpected but perfect. The colors are soft enough to go with almost anything in any season. It is just...perfect!

Picture from barneys.com

Puffs of Doom

2009-02-06T14:39:00.001-07:00

Of course, what goes around comes back around. This is not always the best of things. Sure, stuff like art-deco inspired applique, wrap dresses and the sweater suit are great even at the second time around. But, there are some horrid things that have come back around.

Puffed-sleeves seemed to have reared their obnoxious heads again. Ugh. In virtually all of the recent shows in France there have been puff sleeves. I have no idea why. They flatter nothing and look horrid on everyone who is above a size zero. They add unnecessary volume to an outfit. And, too much volume makes you look huge, and not in a good way. Also, they aren't "classic" in the way that a pencil skirt is, so stuff with puff-sleeves tend to look horribly dated 2 weeks after they were made.

Hopefully the unnecessarily large shoulders stay purely in the realm of couture shows this time around. Other wise this fall may turn out to be even more depressing than normal!

Picture from style.com

Loewe Lives!!

2009-02-05T12:36:00.000-07:00

Some of the long-storied European fashion houses have more or less gone kaput. Ones like Vionette, Paquin and Schiaparelli have basically disappeared, despite producing some ground-breaking and wonderful designs.

Ones of these houses that is trying to rebuild itself up from the forgotten ashes of history is Loewe. It was started in 1846 in Madrid, Spain and specialized in leather goods. In the 1960's it started producing ready-to-wear apparel with the help of designers such as Karl Lagerfeld and Armani. Eventually, the brand grew and was bought by LVMH where it is truly expanding into the international luxury market, where it makes leather goods, ready-to-wear and an impact on fashion.

The Loewe dress pictured is absolutely delicious! The color is heavenly, the cut is flattering and is the perfect party dress. It is a wonderful sign that Loewe is still on its rise to being one of the top international luxury brands!

Picture from style.com

The Ancients Were Right!

2009-02-02T18:01:00.001-07:00

There are some textiles that have been around for thousands of years that are still useful today! One of these is ramie. It has been in use for at least 6,000 years and is native to parts of Asia. It is linen like in texture and considered antibacterial/antifungal. Some mummies in Ancient Egypt have even been found to be wrapped in ramie!

Ramie is made from a bush-like plant and is harvested several times a year, up to six. It is made of the layers of the plant that are just inside the bark that are then processed and spun into fabric.

Even though ramie has been used for 6,000 years, it is still used today. Most of the time it is used in China, Japan and Brazil, although some designers have started incorporating the fiber into their fabrics and designs. One

of these designers is Marni--in 2008 a number of garments were produced with ramie in the fabric. Pictured is one such dress--the ramie is blended with synthetics to stabilize it and increase its durability. Not only is the dress extremely stylish, but the textiles used have truly stood the test of time!

Pictures courtesy of ebay seller "rra2531" and listing number 230322949516

Where's The Tweed?

2009-02-01T08:00:00.000-07:00

It is the spring Couture time of year! Yes, the time when models dressed like cracked out Cleopatras galavant down the runways. It is fun, though!

The Chanel Spring 2009 Couture show seems to be widely loved by the critics. Sure, it is wearable and looks chic and well-tailored. And, it has the crazy paper head-dresses. But, it is missing something.

Tweed. The Chanel show seemed to be completely void of their most signature look of them all--the tweed blazer. Sure, the nice white tailored blazer pictured is lovely. But, it isn't the signature Chanel look that will never, ever go out of style. It is so....weird. Hopefully, at the ready to wear show, the tweed will make a reappearance. Because, what is Chanel without tweed?

Picture from style.com

The Ghost Bride

2009-01-30T15:28:00.000-07:00

The spring Couture shows are something of legend and I hope to attend one day! What makes French Couture the special art that it is the level of skill, time and talent that it takes to pull off the shows.

Givenchy is a legendary French fashion house that has recently been trying to revive itself after falling into fashion disrepair. Well, Tisci sure is trying his best. The fact that the house was able to put together a Couture show for the Spring that was worthy of being photographed is certainly a victory.

Tisci is definitely known for being gothic & dark, and even though the collection is primarily in white, it stays true to his over-arching signatures. Quite frankly, it looks like something a ghostly bride would wear. Not that it is bad, it actually is a wonderful take on this spring's white-based neutrals and art deco inspired cuts. It will be interesting to see how the collection is interpreted into the ready to wear!

Picture from style.com

Some Things Are Just Wrong

2009-01-29T13:32:00.001-07:00

There are some things that look great in runway shows and store displays, but don't always work out in reality. One would be Marni's peep-toe platform boots. It isn't that they are bad in and of themselves, but boy, with the wrong outfit it is just a mess!

What I am specifically speaking of is the disaster of a combination as exhibited by Mariah Carey that appeared on www.perezhilton.com Wow, is that no good! The whole leggings/tights the same color as the boots with the most neutral and boring of outfits just isn't nice. And, the boots appear to be too big or of a length that just don't look right.

I get that boots like this were produced by a number of designers. They have the potential to be great. But, please, make sure you pair them with an actual outfit and that they look like they fit you!

Picture from perezhilton.com

Another One Bites the Dust

2009-01-28T18:38:00.000-07:00

The economy isn't that great right now and has slain many company. Well, one of those companies that isn't doing so hot is Conde' Nast. It has decided to shut down its magazine, DOMINO.

DOMINO was the home-decor version of LUCKY MAGAZINE. It was probably one of the only decorating magazines out that was aimed at younger people who aren't interested in having farm houses like Martha Stewart. It even had decent cooking suggestions. It is very sad to see such a new and fun magazine fold!

Picture from dominomag.com

Ocean of Ideas

2009-01-20T14:35:00.000-07:00

Sometimes there are designers that are so interesting and unconventional that their work is more like artwork instead of just something to wear. A major player in the realm of wearable art is the design group ThreeAsFour.

ThreeAsFour was originally "AsFour", but in 2005 one member left the company due to personal problems. The three remaining designer

s have continued making their unconventional ideas come to life. They generally collaborate with major icons like Bjork and Kate Spade. In recent years, they released a small collection called As FourKateSpade, which included textiles and clothing. They also frequently use Kate Spade shoes in their shows--probably not what you would expect for super avant-garde fashion designers, but they always defy expectations!

The trio design out of their New York studio and show in New York Fashion Week. But, they are also known for their very unconventional ways of exhibiting their clothing. Because they don't just make clothing, but rather all manner of artwork, they are well-known for exhibiting in major museums and other artistic avenues.

The trio are well-known for their circle-shaped bags and circle-seamed coats, such as ones worn by "Samantha" on SEX AND THE CITY. They derive much inspiration from nature and in their SS09 collection, even had cut-away sea shell ornaments on their clothing as decorations and clasps.

Pictures from threeasfour.com

Shiny Pretty Things!

2009-01-16T13:10:00.001-07:00

In the realm of jewelry there are usually two kinds--cheap costume and expensive real stuff. The middle ground of do-able priced jewelry with high-quality metals and stones is extremely hard to find. And, usually if they can be find they either have the world's smallest stones or are incredibly cheaply made.

That is what makes dashaboutique.com so cool!! The prices are incredibly reasonable and half the time there is a great discount code available too! They have stuff of every stone and design to go with just about everything. Even diamonds! What really makes it cool is that they will do custom orders, especially for weddings or other events and at a discount.

The earrings pictured at green prehnite and pearls--the ear findings and metal are up to you! These earrings are absolutely beautiful in person--I know because I wear them all the time!

Picture from dashaboutique.com

The Yes Dress

2009-01-12T12:55:00.001-07:00

There are some dresses that will never go out of style and will always be flattering. Most of the time, those dresses are also boring. But, not this one!

This Rick Owens dress from this spring is to die for. The cut is insanely flattering. No matter your shape or lumps, it is disguise it and make you look like Heidi Klum. The color is such that it looks great on everyone and is the perfect neutral. Imagine how many cute accessories could be worn with the dress! And, the dress could either be worn casual or for more dressy events--it will just depend on what accessories it is paired with!

Sometimes there are dresses that are exactly perfect. And, if anyone can come up with something that is perfect, it is Rick!

Picture from net-a-porter.com

Sasawashi--Origami Papers for Clothes?!

2009-01-08T13:20:00.001-07:00

One of the really cool things about the eco-fashion movement is the innovation in materials. Textile designers and labs are finding new ways to process natural fibres so that they can be comfortably worn. One of these new fibers is called "sasawashi".

Sasawashi is a combination of traditional Japanese papers with Japanese herbs that are woven in a new and creative way. The textile is supposed to be great for people with sensitive skin because it doesn't have stray fiber ends to irritate the skin and make the fabric itchy to the touch. It is also supposed to be nearly 90% UV-proof and full of vitamins.

One of the designers that is really embracing this new fabric is Linda Loudermilk--she has already incorporated it into a variety of garments in this current season, including denim.

So, next time you are out shopping and see "sasawashi" on the fiber content tag there's no more wondering!

Picture from lotusorganics.com

The Face Says Awesome

2009-01-07T19:08:00.001-07:00

Okay, so kitchy-goth is just annoying and trite. I know. But, something about this watch is just cheeky enough to overcome all of that. Watches are status symbols and are meant to show professionalism and that you mean business. Well, hmmm. Watches can also be boring and stodgy, and lets face it, in the age of cell phones and blackberrys, quite useless. Why not take a chance and wear something fun!

This watch is by Marc by Marc Jacobs and is a womens' watch. Not only does it keep time, it actually looks like fun in an adult way. And, the colors are nice and neutral so it should actually match with most outfits!

Picture from net-a-porter.com

Same Great Seller, Different Name

2009-01-06T11:53:00.000-07:00

Ebay for all of its problem, does have a good measure of sellers who are FANTASTIC!! They have some of the most coveted authentic items at discount prices that arrive quickly and beautifully wrapped. One of these stellar sellers is "mushroom_city". Due to recent ill-thought out decisions made by ebay they have had to change their account and it is now "ihave5fatcats". It is the same great seller with the same *DELISH* goodies, just a different name. Make sure to add the new name to your favorites!

Mystery to Me

2009-01-04T15:57:00.001-07:00

There are many things about fashion that I just don't get. Stuff like harem pants, pointy shoes and countless other things. You can add the Longchamp "pilage" bag to it. I know, "it fits everything" and "is waterproof". But, seriously, it is the most boring bag ever.

The first time I really noticed it was the other day on an episode of WHAT NOT TO WEAR. Stacy wrested it from a lady and pronounced it "not good enough" and I totally agree. It is just fine to cramming full of stuff to throw in your car trunk for in the event of an emergency. But, it just isn't a style object nor chic enough to be considered as a bag to use every day. The things that people seem to love it for are things that all bags do--hold stuff and repel water (well, a good many bags do this anyway). But, seriously now, you can do better.

Picture from saks.com

The Apple Doesn't Fall Far From The Tree

2009-01-03T11:57:00.001-07:00

The Japanese fashion companies tend to be insular and apprentice-oriented, so it is no surprise that when they start a new fashion label the designer came from "in-house". Well, one of the best up-and-coming Japanese designers not only came from "in house" from one of the major labels but also from the home of Mr. Yamomoto. His daughter Limi Feu has finally gotten her own line up and running!

For a few years Yamomoto and Limi Feu had a joint line--Yamomoto bis Limi Feu. The line put out some great, edgy but wearable RTW aimed at young women influenced by Japanese street fashions. Limi's personal line seems to be taking that theme and running with it! Her spring showing is wearable yet chants "disaffected Japanese youth". The outfit pictured is great--it has the cuts of all of the major spring trends while looking effortless, edgy and young.

Picture from style.com